How hard is it to change a starter in a 340 Duster?

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Dakota Smith

Dakota Smith

1976 340 Feather Duster
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Feb 17, 2018
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I’ve been working on my 340 Plymouth Duster for almost a year and I’m pretty sure the only thing stopping me from cranking it is the starter. I will be removing the old one and installing the new one tomorrow and I’m wondering how long it will take and how difficult it will be. I’ve never changed a starter before, but there’s tons of resources online, so I don’t think it’s going to be too hard. I am just worried I’m going to have to take a bunch of stuff off to be able to remove the old one. Thanks!
 
Bout 20 or so minutes unless it has headers.
 
Mini starters are easier.
If you don't already have one ?
I would get one.
 
I pulled the driver side header to get to my full sized starter. Not sure I'd be able to do it otherwise. Not a big deal though.

Pat
 
Two bong hits, two bolts, two beers, two wires. Go down buy the new starter and do everything in reverse.
Edit: sorry this is my way of saying it's easy. just joking, don't drink and drive.
 
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not sure of your header brand, but usually i would just put it on ramps, loosen the drivers headers at the head, and turn the steering wheel to get the steering out of the way, and out she comes from the bottom
 
318willrun said:
not sure of your header brand, but usually i would just put it on ramps, loosen the drivers headers at the head, and turn the steering wheel to get the steering out of the way, and out she comes from the bottom
Click to expand...
I thought I'd just said that?!
 
Two bolts- two wires...
Maybe we can go on explaining all the other different angles and make this thread about 16 pages long, but in the end it'll be two bolts and two wires.
 
j par said:
Two bolts- two wires...
Maybe we can go on explaining all the other different angles and make this thread about 16 pages long, but in the end it'll be two bolts and two wires.
Click to expand...
Is there some sort of a limit to how long threads should be?

Dude was asking for help as he needed info.....what could it hurt if a few people weighed in on what worked best them?

what wrench? how many extensions, swivel etc..i say the more the merrier
 
If you’re putting a new starter motor in, consider installing a mini starter. Much easier to install (space wise) compared to putting in a regular size starter.

Do a search on here for tips on replacing starter motors as there have been many threads on it already including what part number to buy for the mini starter.

This gives you an idea of the size difference between the two starter motors:
340 Manifolds on 318
 
When my original huge Mopar starter started fading, I reluctantly went with a mini-starter I got from a mid 90's Dodge pickup at the pick-n-pull. I sure do miss the sound of that gear reduction starter, but man is it 100 times easier to get on and off.

@318willrun has a great suggestion to turn the steering wheel to get the linkage out of the way, something that too me a while to figure out!!
 
Dude it's horrible. Sell it to me & call it a day!
 
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j par said:
Two bolts- two wires...
Maybe we can go on explaining all the other different angles and make this thread about 16 pages long, but in the end it'll be two bolts and two wires.
Click to expand...
16 pages..... says the guy with a 71 page thread on a engine vibration and transfer case :D
 
Before you install a new starter check the relay first. If you can jump the contacts on the relay and get the starter to start you probably have a bad relay. Seen too many starters replaced and still not start! Your relay should be on the drivers side on the fender near the battery.
If I'm wrong here someone please correct me. I have a 73 Dart.
 
If your dealing with an automatic transmission:

Could be a wiring/ neutral switch problem. Here's how this works:

One wire from the ign switch feeds power to the starter relay coil, but it must receive a ground from the neutral safety switch in park/ neutral.

Try wiggling the shifter from park to neutral while holding the key in "start."

On your starter relay, there are two push-on terminals. ONE of them is hot from the ignition switch "in start." Unplug one wire, check both with a test light to see if one is in fact hot when the key is twisted to start.

Then hook up that wire, and use a clip lead to ground the other exposed relay terminal. The car should now crank.

If it does, the problem is in the neutral safety switch or the harness down to it.

Now you'll have to get under the car, find the neutral safety switch near the shift linkage on the driver side near rear of trans. I believe you have the single terminal switch. Clip lead the terminal to ground, hook up the connector up at the relay, and recheck if the engine will crank

Be careful making these checks, and unplug the coil high tension wire, and clip it to ground. The car will CRANK IN GEAR during these tests

If the engine cranks, above in the test, either the trans linkage is out of adjustment, or the switch is bad. I've read, on the www, that finding the older single terminal switch is tough. You can substitute the newer three terminal switch, just use the center terminal. You'll have to buy a pigtail for the correct connector as well.
 
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