POR 15, any expierenced users?

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mopower440

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I have used it on rusted parts before with good success, but i want to know if you can ALSO use it directly on:
1.) Clean bare metal, as in, no paint, primer, or rust, just clean shiny steel..?
2.) metal that has old spots of primer and paint on it but sanded off best possible, not much rust if any at all?
 
The better the surface prep, the better performance of the product. But this hold true with any type of paint. The big issue with por 15 is it must be top coated if exposed to UV light. It provides no UV protection and will breakdown when exposed to sunlight.
 
I used it on my exhaust manifolds about a year ago and they still look like the day I painted them
 
Por 15 really works best on clean bare metal, it will tolerate a little rust as it reacts (chemically bonds and neutralizes) with it, as it does with bare steel to some degree also. POR-15 Technical Information
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Por 15 really works best on clean bare metal, it will tolerate a little rust as it reacts (chemically bonds and neutralizes) with it, as it does with bare steel to some degree also. POR-15 Technical Information
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I was thinking of using it on my control arms being it seems to hold up better than regular rattle can spray paint..I dont ever want to have to redo them again!
 
It works great for suspension parts, my experience with it was limited to using it to repair and seal rust pin holes in the bottom of a motorcycle fuel tank at the petcock. The person who let us have some of his leftovers had primed everything on a ‘69 road runner convertible with it, swears by the stuff...
 
mopower440 said:
I have used it on rusted parts before with good success, but i want to know if you can ALSO use it directly on:
1.) Clean bare metal, as in, no paint, primer, or rust, just clean shiny steel..?
2.) metal that has old spots of primer and paint on it but sanded off best possible, not much rust if any at all?
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I
 
I used it to rebuild the entire middle of my steering wheel. It drills, sands, filled the cracks and it is great stuff. I haven't used it on a body yet. I am eliminating my trim and have to fill 40 holes. I'll keep you posted.

My Old Steering Wheel.JPG


Redone.jpg
 
mopower440 said:
I have used it on rusted parts before with good success, but i want to know if you can ALSO use it directly on:
1.) Clean bare metal, as in, no paint, primer, or rust, just clean shiny steel..?
2.) metal that has old spots of primer and paint on it but sanded off best possible, not much rust if any at all?
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I have used regular POR15 for years. I have always used it as a rust stopper, but I guess you could use it for the purposes you have mentioned. However, take a look at this POR15 product. It is specifically designed to do what you are talking about. You might try calling them also.
POR-15 Top Coat DTM Paint - Paint directly on prepped bare metal surfaces.
 
I've used it to stave off further rust down in the slot between the trunk floor and the quarter. Resto done in 1999 and still no sign of rust... Their Manifold paint it the BEST! You brush it on and then start the motor and it melts into place - no brush strokes. If you get some rusty spots coming out, just touch it up with a brush, start the engine and it melts into the old stuff - no masking, no taking the manifolds off and it always looks fresh with this kind of maintenance.
 
While it doesn't neutralize rust, if you use the cleaner, and prep before applying the POR it does say rust stopper, and i have had a rusty shovel that i test it on 3 years ago, the prep turns the rust black color, then apply the POR, my shovel has been tied to a fence post for 3 years left in rain and snow, and sun, no rust has shown thru and it hasn't peeled. You need to go to the POR web site, they make several different products,some for clean metal, some for rusty and even a rust remover.
 
Use gloves and protect you skin (and eyes). POR-15 is hard to remove from your skin. Read the directions if you plan to top coat. A lot of folks do it while its still tacky. Use a Minimum of 2 coats and again 2nd coat when tacky. It will self level.
 
mopower440 said:
I was thinking of using it on my control arms being it seems to hold up better than regular rattle can spray paint..I dont ever want to have to redo them again!
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Powdercoat is the best solution for this
 
roccodart440 said:
Powdercoat is the best solution for this
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I agree for control arms.
Powdercoat "is" a great solution in a lot of instances. The prep also needs to be perfect and the customer needs to understand that repair to a powdercoat finish in near impossible. In most cases system failure requires a complete redo. A lot of people think powdercoat is the end all do all. Just be aware. It has some short comings.
 
Blind Squirrel said:
I agree for control arms.
Powdercoat "is" a great solution in a lot of instances. The prep also needs to be perfect and the customer needs to understand that repair to a powdercoat finish in near impossible. In most cases system failure requires a complete redo. A lot of people think powdercoat is the end all do all. Just be aware. It has some short comings.
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True repair, agreed.

black powder coat can be easily touched up on unimportant or not center of attention parts. NOthing is more durable though.
 
roccodart440 said:
True repair, agreed.

black powder coat can be easily touched up on unimportant or not center of attention parts. NOthing is more durable though.
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I do not know anyone that does powdercoating around here though, and am kind of short on time with this thing, but that would be great to have that done!
 
mopower440 said:
I do not know anyone that does powdercoating around here though, and am kind of short on time with this thing, but that would be great to have that done!
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You could have them sent to be done. Bill Reilly has done spindles for me @rms suspension.

por is tough stuff though. DO NOT GET IT ONE YOUR SKIN!!
 
s
Bodyperson said:
I read the instructions in the link you provided and nowhere does it say it neutralizes rust.
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Correct, and duly noted. In the advertisements that POR15 ran when it first came out they explained the process by which it would catalyze with the moisture in rust and prevent it from spreading, I got my Qs ahead of my Ps... Extend is the rust converter, but it's not even a contest in comparison to POR15.
 
As to the comment about "touching up" powder coating, you run two risks: relying on the first coater's prep work, and over-curing the initial base coat which can result in making the whole finish brittle.
 
I used POR extensively on a Corvette I'm restoring. To relate to your specific questions:

1)I used it to cover both sides of newly installed floor pans. Scuffed them with scotchbrite pads and painted. Seems to be holding up fine.

2) Used the leftover paint to cover my metal work bench. I ran a wire wheel over it first to strip paint an knock the scale off some rust. No other prep and there was still a lot of paint still left on it. The POR has held up great to six years of abuse (it is a workbench!) and has only lifted in a few places due to letting chemicals puddle and sit.
 
You get it on ya , you wear it to the grave. I had a 37 Plymouth coupe , I did the chasis and under body. Just finished doing the bottom of my mower deck , good stuff.
I would not use the spray that they have , inhaling risk even with proper precautions.
 
The POR 15 comes with a cleaner and a metal prep to use before applying the paint..I have a lot of the metal prep and wondering if it would be good to use on the other parts that im just using spray paint on to help it stick also, or is it specifically for the POR 15 paint only?
 
mopower440 said:
The POR 15 comes with a cleaner and a metal prep to use before applying the paint..I have a lot of the metal prep and wondering if it would be good to use on the other parts that im just using spray paint on to help it stick also, or is it specifically for the POR 15 paint only?
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I had that also. Its just a cleaner. If you can when you use it rinse it well , its a metal itcher.
 
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