694spd
Well-Known Member
Well, never say never. I just went out to the check the coupling on my 69 Dart and I see that it HAS the safety retaining pin in the coupler body. When I get the chance, I will check my 68
Last edited:
Scary steering shaft/coupler failure!
- Thread starter Trevor B
- Start date
-
Well, never say never. I just went out to the check the coupling on my 69 Dart and I see that it HAS the safety retaining pin in the coupler body. When I get the chance, I will check my 68
Should be a small 1/8? roll pin to keep the shoes from pulling out near the top of the coupler also.
Sedanman
67-9 Valiant specialist
Yep,that's the one I'm talking about but that earlier coupler may not have had it. I know the 68-up does
I would add one if not easy to do. Probably easier on the car also.
Trevor B
Well-Known Member
Okay - got the coupler rebuilt and put the clip on. It's a good design.
I think what happened is that after I (or an earlier owner) killed the shear pins, the lower shaft simply rode up on its own after the coupler cover came loose. The steering column most likely didn't move backward as I was driving it.
Although not in the car yet, I did a test installation on the bench and found the following to work really well:
1) Position the clip and put one of the two legs in the hole (I used the non-recessed hole). The other leg rides on top of the coupler.
2) Start the roll pin in the recessed side
3) Drive the roll pin through gradually, massaging the first coupler leg into the pin as the pin travels through the hole
4) Work the second leg into the recessed hole and other end of the roll pin - a few light taps with a hammer and it's good and snug
5) Best part is that the clip also serves to retain the roll pin, although it probably shouldn't fall out.
I think what happened is that after I (or an earlier owner) killed the shear pins, the lower shaft simply rode up on its own after the coupler cover came loose. The steering column most likely didn't move backward as I was driving it.
Although not in the car yet, I did a test installation on the bench and found the following to work really well:
1) Position the clip and put one of the two legs in the hole (I used the non-recessed hole). The other leg rides on top of the coupler.
2) Start the roll pin in the recessed side
3) Drive the roll pin through gradually, massaging the first coupler leg into the pin as the pin travels through the hole
4) Work the second leg into the recessed hole and other end of the roll pin - a few light taps with a hammer and it's good and snug
5) Best part is that the clip also serves to retain the roll pin, although it probably shouldn't fall out.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
Ok i like safer less sloppy stuff anyway.
Not mine. I know how to do things right. Keep “fixing” things that aren’t broke.
While you can certainly replace the factory coupler with a u joint, the factory coupler when in good condition or rebuilt is a good design and works very well. Stop and think about how many millions of Chrysler products came with them and how long they lasted. If it was a bad design, there would either have been a massive recall or lots of dead people, neither of which happened. No sense in insulting each other over a personal decision of which type coupler to use. Just use the one you like and be happy.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
Well i run headers and like the clearance it affords me instead of that huge box thing.
thesiren74
Well-Known Member
You are the greatest man.
You'll get zero argument from me THERE. I love Chryslers bein different and all, but no room for any but the most expensive headers is just stupidness. Chebbie guys can catch um on sale for 89.95 and we gotta pay a thousand.
-
