Whats everyone using for a battery disconnect switch on their mopar new and old?

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71DodgeDemon340

71DodgeDemon340

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I have a performance plus battery disconnect switch thats been on the car for 7-8 years, i recently noticed that a few times i go to switch it on and the car seems like its getting intermittent power. Turn the switch off then back on and its fine. Well yesterday pulling in the car show it died, of course lol of all the places, turned the ignition off and on and nothing, did it again and i could see the shift light briefly flash but didnt not stay on for the 2-3 seconds like its suppose to when the ignition is first turned on. Got out and turned the disconnect switch off then back on, she fired right up. So when i got back home i took the switch out, the off and on position still feels solid but the contacts inside must either be dirty or worn, i was looking at the switch on the company's website and its only rated for 450 amps momentary, i know the battery is way hotter than that, so im going to replace it with either a 1000 amp or a 2500 amp momentary rated switch. But theres so many brands, just curious as to what everyone was having luck with. Im looking for a manual rotating switch. I was looking at flaming rivers “big switch” but i contacted them for the switch dimensions as i only have a limited space where the bracket is. Thanks for any advice!
 
Adjust pos. clamp to be closed just before it bottoms out on the battery post.
1/4 turn cw and push down to install.
1/4 turn cc and pull up to remove when not using the car.
 
Summit Racing® Remote Battery Disconnect Kits SUM-830051
You dont need a super high amp rated switch if you use relays.
I have a rod going forward for "normal" use. Easy reach from drivers seat.

100_1294.jpg
 
Not only momentary.Make sure you check the constant amp rating too.I just went thru this on my motorhome starting battery. I had 2 fail after a few years,found out that the switches I was using was rated at 250 momentary,but only 20 amps constant. I never checked, meaning what the alternator amp out put is. Mine is 145.So I bought a 180 amp constant.Just a thought.
 
Darter6 said:
Not only momentary.Make sure you check the constant amp rating too.I just went thru this on my motorhome starting battery. I had 2 fail after a few years,found out that the switches I was using was rated at 250 momentary,but only 20 amps constant. I never checked, meaning what the alternator amp out put is. Mine is 145.So I bought a 180 amp constant.Just a thought.
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Yeah thats what i was looking at, the summit and moroso switch is rated at 190 amps continuous and 1000 momentary. The flaming river is rated at 250 amps continuous and 2500 momentary
 
R
Jimacuda said:
Summit Racing® Remote Battery Disconnect Kits SUM-830051
You dont need a super high amp rated switch if you use relays.
I have a rod going forward for "normal" use. Easy reach from drivers seat.

View attachment 1715370176
Click to expand...
Jimacuda said:
Summit Racing® Remote Battery Disconnect Kits SUM-830051
You dont need a super high amp rated switch if you use relays.
I have a rod going forward for "normal" use. Easy reach from drivers seat.

View attachment 1715370176
Click to expand...

Im not using any relays, battery cable goes from the battery to the switch then the other side of the switch feeds the starter and starter relay and main wire for the bulkhead.
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
R



Im not using any relays, battery cable goes from the battery to the switch then the other side of the switch feeds the starter and starter relay and main wire for the bulkhead.
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Then your starter cable is hot all the time when the switch is energized.
Not real safe IMO.
Spend a few more bucks and get two relays.
Starter relay, ford type is excellent.
Constant duty relay, the one that SHOULD be controling power on/off to everything.
"kill switch" controls all power leaving the battery area.
no constant hot leads going forward.
 
I use the Ford type relay & the Moroso switch on my bracket Demon with no problems over the last 10-11 tears.
 
I know what the ford relay is, have one on my bronco, what wire do i use for a signal wire to operate the relay?
 
I have a Morroso on my 68 Barracuda. I prefer to completely kill all power so as not to worry about a power drain or something shorting out when I'm not around.
 
72bluNblu, that's the same way my race car is wired. I've used the same type on multiple cars with no problems over the years.
 
72bluNblu said:
I use this Moroso disconnect switch
Moroso Super Duty Battery Disconnect Switches 74102

With this Moroso continuous duty relay up front
Moroso Alternator Shutdown Relay Kits 74107

With the battery relocated to the trunk and wired like this...
View attachment 1715370248
Click to expand...

Thats how my switch is wired, no alternator kill though just a two pole, so your power wire going to the starter is hot all the time as well. I thought it was ok like that, been working fine for about 8 years. I may look into adding a separate relay to keep the main starter wire from being hot all the time even with the car running
 
Demonracer said:
72bluNblu, that's the same way my race car is wired. I've used the same type on multiple cars with no problems over the years.
Click to expand...

Yup. Wired like that the disconnect kills everything, including the alternator if the car is running. With the disconnect thrown the only thing still hot is the line from the battery to the disconnect switch, so no power at all anywhere outside the trunk.

And many thanks again to @67Dart273, who walked me through the whole thing when I did it. I made up the diagram, but it was decidedly all of his electrical know-how.
 
Jimacuda said:
Then your starter cable is hot all the time when the switch is energized...
Click to expand...
to be fair, the factory left the starter cable hot all the time too. the OP never actually said the battery is in the trunk, which is what i think, everyone is assuming.
and, before i get A.R.O.S. :) i agree the 4 lug disconnect to kill everything is the way to go
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
If its not any trouble could you measure the diameter of the switch? Thank you
Click to expand...
Just got home from working, league day so I had to sign a bunch of targets. Looks like there are several of us singing the Moroso song. Do you still need the switch measured? Let me know if you do., no problem. Apologize for delay in responding, guy has gotta earn a living every now and then!
 
Sublime one said:
Just got home from working, league day so I had to sign a bunch of targets. Looks like there are several of us singing the Moroso song. Do you still need the switch measured? Let me know if you do., no problem. Apologize for delay in responding, guy has gotta earn a living every now and then!
Click to expand...

Yes please! If you could get a measurement of the diameter of the switch body.
 
kursplat said:
to be fair, the factory left the starter cable hot all the time too. the OP never actually said the battery is in the trunk, which is what i think, everyone is assuming.
and, before i get A.R.O.S. :) i agree the 4 lug disconnect to kill everything is the way to go
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Thats what i was thinking, i should have stated where it was, its mounted underneath the battery tray.

172442D0-06DD-4038-9FC5-F34349FDF733.jpeg


4F1562CB-38EE-4568-A93C-7DD259D838ED.jpeg


The top red wire goes to the battery, the bottom red wire goes to the starter.

I dont race it so thats why i put it here, more so to disconnect power while its in the garage or sitting at a car show.
 
My car is not a race car and the battery is on the stock location. I only need the disconnect for winter storage purposes or working on the electrical system. I will get flamed for this but my disconnect is on the core support next to the battery and disconnects the negative post. I know most will disagree but this works for me on all my cars and my cars aren't being inspected by race officials. I've saved a few batteries this way. Full disclosure I like the relay method in post #6.
 
71DodgeDemon340 said:
...i should have stated where it was, its mounted underneath the battery tray.
I dont race it so thats why i put it here, more so to disconnect power while its in the garage or sitting at a car show.
Click to expand...

looks good. people worry about a long run of cable from the rear chafing on something and lighting the car on fire, but like that, i'd sleep ok
 
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