What is this and why would it be there?

I like 4” stroke cast crank to about 500 hp, but no eagle cast cranks. You need as much head flow as possible. Solid flat tappet no hydr’s with headers and an air gap 800 cfm carb 10 to 1 should get you mid to high 11’s with a sorted out combo. That stroke will live forever. More hp than 500 or want room to grow go forged crank. I have probably 1000 runs on my cast scat crank and a ton of street miles. Shift at 6400-6500 rpm

furrystump said:

I like 4” stroke cast crank to about 500 hp, but no eagle cast cranks. You need as much head flow as possible. Solid flat tappet no hydr’s with headers and an air gap 800 cfm carb 10 to 1 should get you mid to high 11’s with a sorted out combo. That stroke will live forever. More hp than 500 or want room to grow go forged crank. I have probably 1000 runs on my cast scat crank and a ton of street miles. Shift at 6400-6500 rpm

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So when you say as much flow as possible, does that mean after market heads? What's wrong with hydraulics? Cam choice suggestions?

I’m not smart enough for cam specs. I would figure out what stroke and cylinder head I was going to run. Then figure out my rear gear and about what the car weighs and call one of the recommended cam companies and tell them what you goal is and all the above info. I run a pretty max effort x head without eliminating the pushrod pinch. Which averages around 275-280 cfm at .555 lift. I am required to run a stock casting iron head. If I wasn’t I would buy the new aluminum trick flow head. If you want to run a stock cast iron head, you should understand that its not cheap or easy to get them ported to the level to support a stroker, plus they really can only support about 420-430 CI. If you want to go that route I would recommend Porter Racing Heads, Dwayne Porter is on here. There are just so many better head choices than a stock casting that unless you REALLY want that sleeper look or are required to run one it is pretty silly to spend the $ on them. I don’t like hydr lifters because they either collapse or pump up and cause grief. A solid does not require that much maintenance. Once it settles in, you can check it once/twice a year.

Are you running an auto or 4 spd? Is it good for street use. I don't want a beast thats no fun to drive.

Everything is subjective. It is an auto. Some think 4:10 gear is unthinkable for the street. Me a little bit. The car on the highway can run a bit warm with the 4:10’s. Some think a 9.5 converter that stalls somewhere around 3500 rpm not street-able, but the new converters are not like the old “ it won’t even move until I’m at half throttle” my 9.5 converter is fine for me. A pump gas 10 to 1, 4” stroke 3:73 or 3:91 gear would be a GREAT street car. Fine street manors and great longevity and almost quick enough to get you into roll bar territory. Oh I just ran drag week with it and the only change was I went to 3:73 rear gear. To help with the cooling issue. Its 12.2 to 1 so it was boring to drive after I ran through the c12 that was left in the car from racing and was running on pump fuel.