Car won't crank, Guage lights flash, and how do I pull my starter?

Glenguy said
Whew! This is amazing! As a guitar player, I can rewire an electric guitar and do all kinds of mods, but when it comes to cars, I'm a complete butthead in the electronics department! A cousin of mine, who is a master mechanic suggested that that I get everything back to original; I'm starting to believe it! However, I'm going to pull the starter, have it tested, get it out of the flowchart, and then fine tune the rest. The person who had the car before me sure dicked around with it. I'll just have to keep working through this Rubix cube. There is a goldmine of info here, and I sure appreciate it!

You'll be fine then.

The only 'trick' about understanding the car wiring is knowing that power comes from two different sources depending on the situation.
And with the exception of the starter, all power is distributed from the main splice.

Everything connected to that is always hot as long as the battery is connected.
But the battery's power is essentially at 12.8 Volts. (It will get pulled down from there during starting, and will have surface charge a little higher after charging).
When the engine is running and the alternator working, the alternator can provide power at something above that; generally around 14 Volts.
As long as that's true, the alternator provides power.
Power always flows from the highest voltage source; either battery or alternator.

For fixing the wires.
Most of the terminals are 'open barrel' type crimps.
Get a crimper that does them.
The female terminals are mostly 'Chrysler type' which seems to be Packard 58 series.

The Chrysler or Packard 58 types will fit properly in the original connector housings. Packard 56 sometimes don't fit right. I think its because they are too short.

The male terminals seem to the same as Packard 56.
Sources for Chrysler type wire terminals