Removing seized Kelsey Hayes pistons

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See, the hydraulic grease method works great, doesn't it, if you don't have the official factory Miller Special Tools from back in the dinosaur days.
Now let me add to this posting if i could.
If there is rust pitting in the caliper bores, that's not a big deal at all on the Kelsey Hayes style of brakes.
The piston "seal" is at the top of the piston bore, and not on the piston itself, like on the Bendix, or BUDD, disc brakes that Ma Mopar also used.
When the seal is on the piston itself, then yes the piston goes up on down in the caliper bore, but not unlike the Kelsey Hayes where the piston seal is "fixed" at the top of the bore and doesn't move around.
Kelsey Hayes had their s#%t together when they designed their brakes, not unlike the other two.
So what if the bore has some pitting to it.
It's not going to do anything.
Don't worry about it, loose any sleep over it.
What i do is get out my Dremel, with an 80 grit flap wheel on it, and lightly clean up the bores with that tool.
Works great, easy, peasy.
Guess if you don't have a Dremel, sandpaper, twisting around in the bores works, too.
But for me, my fingers don't twist, and manipulate, that well anymore, in my old age, so i use 'tools" to get the job done.
And one last thing, there is no such thing as an oversize piston on these disc brake systems.
Standard size(s) are what's produced.

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Thanks for this information. If you don't mind I'd like to get some clarification. Are you saying the piston and piston bore don't relate as far as sealing goes? The seal is all about the rubber?
I'm starting to get back on my 68 dart gt convertible and I'm rebuilding the KH calipers. The pistons are seized in the calipers so I'm soaking them in my electrolysis rust removal tank. I have the rebuild kits but figured I'd need new pistons once I get them out. According to your post maybe I'll be fine with the originals???
Thanks again.
 
If the pistons are F*&#@D up, pitted, divoted, rusted, scored, then you need pistons.
How many, 1, 2, 3, all 8, you won't know until you get them out.
 
I have removed Kelsey-Hayes pistons, that were badly stuck, buy drilling a hole in thru the center of the piston, and then tapinig the hole to 5/16th 18 threads. use a grade 8 bolt, and it will push them right out.
Worked for me.
Dave
 
Air psi had ZERO effect at approx 140. TONS more psi AND effect with a grease gun lol, not sure if its safer or not but mission accomplished.
Mike, when I went to post info in "how to", I posted it to "steering/suspension/brakes" no idea how it got here, but like you said info is out that's the main thing.

I think you are lucky it didn't come out with the air.
 
If the pistons are F*&#@D up, pitted, divoted, rusted, scored, then you need pistons.
How many, 1, 2, 3, all 8, you won't know until you get them out.

Do these need to be chrome plated or stainless steel? I can turn my own on my lathe but it wouldn't be worth it if I had to buy stainless or get them chromed. I'm wondering if just mild steel?
 
Buy stainless ones. Mustang sources have them. Originals were chromed. Mild steel will cause corrosion issues.

I like the idea of the stainless but I can't find a source?? I spent some time on Google and just kept running into a dead end.
Is it correct to assume that aluminum would be a bad candidate?
 
Your making a mountain out of a mole hill.
Just go to Rock Auto and buy yourself the pistons that your going to be needing.
Easy, peasy.
From $8.00 to $12.00 for which ever manufacturer that you want to buy.
 
It looks like I'll be ordering the steel pistons from rock auto. Is there a noticeable advantage to the phenolic?
 
It looks like I'll be ordering the steel pistons from rock auto. Is there a noticeable advantage to the phenolic?
No such thing as phenolic pistons for the Kelsey Hayes, 4 piston, disc brake calipers, in all the decades that i have been involved in rebuilding this type of disc brake caliper.
Never heard of em, or seen em, in real life.
 
Just made up a grease fitting adaptor to get my pistons out.

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