Alignment Help
Do a search here there has been many many threads about alignment
You lean the spindle back as far as you can by rotating the cams so that this is so. You can see how these work by moving them. That gives you max caster. Then you move the cams in the minimum amount to give you camber. Use the doctored settings if you have radial tires, on the chart here, the "skosh" chart So you want the tops of the tires IN with radials, the opposite of bias ply
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
Read this:
duster alignment
From Jim Lusk:
"Have them start with the front cam all the way out and the rear cam all the way in. Move the rear cam out until camber is in spec (1/2 deg. neg is good). This is the most positive caster that is available without new parts (offset bushings, tubular upper control arms, etc.). All of this is AFTER setting ride height. I usually set ride height with about an inch between the LCA bumper and the frame, then even the sides up."
Do a search here there has been many many threads about alignment
You lean the spindle back as far as you can by rotating the cams so that this is so. You can see how these work by moving them. That gives you max caster. Then you move the cams in the minimum amount to give you camber. Use the doctored settings if you have radial tires, on the chart here, the "skosh" chart So you want the tops of the tires IN with radials, the opposite of bias ply
Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance on classic Mopars
Read this:
duster alignment
From Jim Lusk:
"Have them start with the front cam all the way out and the rear cam all the way in. Move the rear cam out until camber is in spec (1/2 deg. neg is good). This is the most positive caster that is available without new parts (offset bushings, tubular upper control arms, etc.). All of this is AFTER setting ride height. I usually set ride height with about an inch between the LCA bumper and the frame, then even the sides up."
