duster alignment

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B-NA$TY

B-NA$TY

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hi everyone i know this topic about alignments have been talked about and explored from every angle ..... iv got a 74 duster ,/6 ,power steering, front disc, LCA's beefed up full front-end rebuild (oem rubber type) super stock springs and magnum force adjustable UCA's k-member 4.5" off the ground :) i took the specs from FABO to the shop to set it up and they wanted $200 to do it..... im following all the smart guys and doing it at home. All i need is where should i set the arms to start, or dose anyone have a set i can get some specs off of to make it a little easier and fine adjust from there any help would rock THANKS!
 
You know how to measure camber, and to figure caster? Or have a caster/ camber gauge?


According to Jim Lusk, see this thread

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=60712

Jim Lusk said:
Have them start with the front cam all the way out and the rear cam all the way in. Move the rear cam out until camber is in spec (1/2 deg. neg is good). This is the most positive caster that is available without new parts (offset bushings, tubular upper control arms, etc.). All of this is AFTER setting ride height. I usually set ride height with about an inch between the LCA bumper and the frame, then even the sides up.
Click to expand...



Use the AllPar "skosh chart" here:


289d4j7.jpg

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/front-end-alignment.html
 
Oh hell Jim I somehow missed that little detail. Doesn't the folks who made those tell you where to start?
 
Yes, they do, but the ones I put on my son's Barracuda needed more than the suggested starting point. I've got a cheap caster/camber gauge which helps (so does not having inner fender wells...).
 
Yes I got a digital camber caster gauge. I bought these arms used so they are already adjusted out of funk....
 
Ok, then. Screw the ends in all the way and back them out two turns each. Then try the method above and see where things are at. Adjust from there...
 
WOW, kudos to you for actually reading up on the subject. You just blew me away. ! :glasses7:
 
Awesome thank you everyone I'll get on it this coming up weekend and let you know
 
For visual learners, this is what Jim Lusk describes...
 

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B-NA$TY said:
Awesome thank you everyone I'll get on it this coming up weekend and let you know
Click to expand...

Does you caster/camber guage attach to your center wheel hub (magnet).

Have you tried to rig it up in advance? I've borrowed one from a circle track buddy and the attachment to the hub interfered.

Also put down a homemade grease plate under the tires. That will save you aggravation and time. Two sheet of sheetmetal with grease or even linoleum sheets from Home Depot.
 
^^Someone claims that salt makes great ball bearings for turning plates^^
 
Ya my gauge is magnetic .... And I was think about makn a set of turn plates...... Before I get to their I was going to back the car up my slanted driveway and put the font end on jack stands under the lower control arms making the car sit level and base set my alignment then set it on turn plates.....
 
The surface you align on needs to be very level. It's likely that stands under the LCAs won't allow the proper travel. If you were closer to Fresno I'd let you use my flat car port.
 
UPDATE!!!!!!! im sorry its been a long time but i finally got everything together........ i found my duster had some minor frame damage that was able to be corrected with the adjustable arms....... the arms had to be adjusted between 9-18 turns. I ended up going with max street performance CAMBER 0.1 CASTER 3.0 TOE IN:1/16"
 
B-NA$TY said:
UPDATE!!!!!!! im sorry its been a long time but i finally got everything together........ i found my duster had some minor frame damage that was able to be corrected with the adjustable arms....... the arms had to be adjusted between 9-18 turns. I ended up going with max street performance CAMBER 0.1 CASTER 3.0 TOE IN:1/16"
Click to expand...

So, how does it drive now?
 
It drives like a new Cadillac with awesome performance And drives straight (-:
 
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