Going to drop an engine out the bottom using a 2 post lift. With all that engine/k frame weight coming off the front, do we need to worry about the car becoming tail heavy and tipping backwards?
Engine out the bottom with a lift
- Thread starter Backally
- Start date
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I'd be worried about that. If I were doing it that way, I'd try to set the car a little farther forward then I normally would. Then, I would make sure not to lift the car any higher then I absolutely had to.
Personally, I just use a cherry picker with some 1/4" angle iron bolted to the bumper bracket holes. It works perfectly.
Personally, I just use a cherry picker with some 1/4" angle iron bolted to the bumper bracket holes. It works perfectly.
Maybe. Make sure the car is positioned far enough forward that doesn't happen. I find it easier without a lift and using an engine hoist to lift the car off the k frame. You don't have the confines of the lift posts in the way.
dano
Evil Handy Man
I lowered my Engine, K, front end and 4 speed down onto two Dollies, lift the front end up high and roll it all forward. Removing the carb and Dist helps with height. I had the rear on stands and be careful lifting the car as the stand will want to tip backwards.
doug 371
Well-Known Member
strap it to the lift
I’ve done it using a cherry picker before but have access to the lift now. Thought it may be easier to do as I can get more room underneath for the final disconnects. After it’s done we may set the car on dollies so we can move it around.
dano
Evil Handy Man
Well you'll have it low enough to release the motor, just watch the car to see if it start to tilt. The rear end is the heaviest item in the rear and it way lighter than the front end. I like Doug's idea, strap it down.
This
Back arms stretched out as far back as you can get them, and yes strap it to the lift.
Two Pads on the rear of the front frame rails and two pads on the front of the rear frame rails and proceed.
with the back pads that close to the rear differential
Its not going anywhere. Let’s see how complicated we can make this task
with the back pads that close to the rear differential
Its not going anywhere. Let’s see how complicated we can make this task
I think my plan will be to strap it to the lift arms if able. Will check it for stability as the body comes up, and hang some weight off the front bumper if it feels shaky. Once engine is out and away, lower it and put the back axle on jack stands.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
I have some large c clamps that are leftover from my chassis building days... they work perfectly when you have to work on an unbalanced vehicle...removing an engine, rear axle, etc. I just clamp the chassis to the lift arms...
TheGrateRonzini
Well-Known Member
I bolted chain to the bumper brackets and used an engine lift to lift the car, and a HD( let’s call it a hemi or motorhome) furniture dolly. The worst part is the t bars. But as soon as you clear the rail in the wheel well, you can come out the side. Assuming you are lifting from the front. The only way I have used a two post, is to run battin rail, or 2” pipe across the legs and use that to lift the mill. Push the car back, lift the back of trans and boom
charger426
Well-Known Member
Used my 2 post to lift the car off the kmemeber with the engine and transmission still attached to it. The easiest engine removal I’ve ever done. Putting it all back together was super easy as well.
The odd that’s you’re dead nuts center every time you lift a car is pretty rare. That’s why you do the shake test with it a couple of inches off the ground. Safety is always number one priority but it seems like a lot of the arm failures are back when the arms didn’t lock in place. The arms on my lift lock into place once the arm lifts about an inch off the ground.
The odd that’s you’re dead nuts center every time you lift a car is pretty rare. That’s why you do the shake test with it a couple of inches off the ground. Safety is always number one priority but it seems like a lot of the arm failures are back when the arms didn’t lock in place. The arms on my lift lock into place once the arm lifts about an inch off the ground.
I've heard of people just putting some jack stands on the back but that doesn't look safe to me. With my luck the car would slip off of them. When I've use the cherry picker, I've either had the rear end installed first or used my body stands that bolt to the front leaf spring mount.
I also bought a really thick chain that is overkill for the job at hand. Chain is cheap, there is no reason to use something small.
Probably get flamed for this being unsafe but when I used a cherry picker I put the back wheels on ramps and ratchet strapped the wheel and ramp
together. Got the back end up in the air more and was actually very steady
ive done a few cars on 2 post lifts and drop everything out the bottom , I always tie the car to the hoist legs with ratchet strap, just to be safe. I have a set up that looks the the one on graveyard cars it works great, the only way to pull everything out and install.
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