Which valve covers to go to

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Steven190

Steven190

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Right now I have the tall chrome Moroso valve covers. I changed to the Trick Flow heads with Harland Sharp rockers. I am now having some interference problems. I have bent the baffles and the rocker studs still touch.
My question is what is everyone using for tall valve covers? There seems to be a lot of chose.
Are the fabricated covers any good and are they taller?
 
After looking at the spec, the Moroso are 3.25" tall
Need more height
 
Moroso has a thick silicone gasket. How much more do you need? Will it clear with the baffles removed?
 
dano said:
Moroso has a thick silicone gasket. How much more do you need? Will it clear with the baffles removed?
Click to expand...
I have 2 gaskets now, So I am looking at least 3 1/2" with the two gaskets. I have dented the baffles but it seems like there are some interference yet.
 
burdar said:
These are an option but they are pricey. Valve cover spacers.

MediceMfg ...Valve Cover Spacers - Mopar
Click to expand...

That looks like an option, will have to look at what I need tomorrow, most likely the 3/8"
I have to take off the valve cover again to look, but the circled is a dent that just started.

dented VC.jpg
 
Steven190 said:
That looks like an option, will have to look at what I need tomorrow, most likely the 3/8"
I have to take off the valve cover again to look, but the circled is a dent that just started.

View attachment 1715554644
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If it’s just the adjuster smacking the cover you may be able to get a shorter adjuster.

Otherwise it’s taller VC’s or spacers.
 
I broke a TFS stud and the shaft. So I have been working on replacing the shaft and stud, broke it at the end of the hex.
I also add B3 rocker alignment shims. When I started it today there was a ticking noise, which gave me the dented cover. I used the two gaskets the first time because the rocker adjustment studs hit the cover, mostly in the baffle area. Things must be really tight under the cover.

broken stud.jpg
 
Steven190 said:
I broke a TFS stud and the shaft. So I have been working on replacing the shaft and stud, broke it at the end of the hex.
I also add B3 rocker alignment shims. When I started it today there was a ticking noise, which gave me the dented cover. I used the two gaskets the first time because the rocker adjustment studs hit the cover, mostly in the baffle area. Things must be really tight under the cover.

View attachment 1715554669
Click to expand...
No .... your rockers and shaft are up off the stands cause the shaft broke!
OP how freaking tight are you torquing them?!
Or better question is do you have equal shimming under the shaft 'end to end'.
It looks like you high centered the shaft on that stand....

Damn!!!!!
 
It looks like the shaft flexed when the bolt broke. I put grade 8 bolts on all of my rocker shafts with a couple of flat washers so the bolt doesn't bottom out in the rocker stand.
 
Last edited:
The studs were torqued to 25 pound feet. The shims are offset and equal size. They are ARP bolts. I figure the stud gave way then flexed the shaft enough to break it.
It happen at a stop light, has been running with the shims a year now.
 
Was it on a new install? I answered a request for a local where all of his valve train was brand new & he had soaked his lifters to get oil in them. When we went to install the shafts & rockers it got really hard on the bolts until some of the oil bled off of the lifters.
 
Steven190 said:
I broke a TFS stud and the shaft. So I have been working on replacing the shaft and stud, broke it at the end of the hex.
I also add B3 rocker alignment shims. When I started it today there was a ticking noise, which gave me the dented cover. I used the two gaskets the first time because the rocker adjustment studs hit the cover, mostly in the baffle area. Things must be really tight under the cover.

View attachment 1715554669
Click to expand...


Yeah, with the B3 kit it’s going to be tight, and you already have the short adjusters. That’s going to need new VC’s or spacers.
 
Demonracer said:
Was it on a new install? I answered a request for a local where all of his valve train was brand new & he had soaked his lifters to get oil in them. When we went to install the shafts & rockers it got really hard on the bolts until some of the oil bled off of the lifters.
Click to expand...

The shims went on a motor that was ran for several years, had about 800 miles on it, then replaced the shims. I am running BAM solid lifters on a Lunati cam.
 
yellow rose said:
Yeah, with the B3 kit it’s going to be tight, and you already have the short adjusters. That’s going to need new VC’s or spacers.
Click to expand...

I have to wonder how complicated running a spacers would be considering how tight the pushrods are against the edge. See picture below. it looks like you might have to notch the spacer as well to get it to work.

DSC02386.JPG
 
Bottom tap the holes
depending on the tap used stock installing studs can split the stands if the tap had a big taper and you screw in tight
you might want to drop a piece of lead shot or a bb into the hole before threading in the stud
with 25 lbs torque no way do you need grade 8 studs, they will not torque to stretch so you are using them just for the adjusters

Shims? whose "shims" are we talking about B3 spacers or flat shims that have to be bent? (not a good idea)
 
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