Need to Level Things Out (To Install TTI Exhaust System)?

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dibbons

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During re-installation of the exhaust system, we find the the Torqueflite 904 front servo port plug is all but touching the TTI 2 1/2" passenger side head pipe (photo #6) used on our '65 Formula S with factory stock exhaust manifolds. The clearance with the same side torsion bar is almost as tight (photo #7). Measuring engine height (crankshaft centerline to crossmember) and engine offset to the passenger side seems to look about correct as compared to the TTI chart (photo #1). The head for bolt for the oil filter adaptor has been machined down per instructions footnote as well (photos #4 & #5).

I did find the motor is not level, about a 1/4" too low on the passenger side (photos #2 & #3). Going to fabricate some shims and hope for the best after raising that side a bit.

engine location specs.png


shims 2.JPG


shims 3.JPG


oil adaptor bolt modification.png


TTI oil filter bolt.JPG


TTI pass trans plug 2JPG.JPG


TTI pass torsion bar.JPG
 
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More photos (factory manifolds, control arm clearance, bell-housing clearance, and trans. crossmember clearance):

TTI pass manifold.JPG


TTI pass control arm 2.JPG


TTI pass bellhousing 2.JPG


TTI pass crossmember.JPG
 
Shimmed the passenger side motor mount about 6mm/.25" and that has made all the difference in the world. Things are still very tight but at least nothing touches the pipe this time. Probably overkill on a stock 318 build anyway (except for the original 273 Commando AFB).

new tti 1.JPG


new tti 2.JPG


new tti 4.JPG


new tti 18.JPG
 
New clearances in order of photos: lower control arm, oil filter adaptor bolt, bell-housing, torqueflite front servo port plug, transmission cross member (one view from passenger side, one view from driver side), and torsion bar.

tti control arm 2.JPG


tti oil filter adaptor bolt.JPG


new tti 8.JPG


new tti 14.JPG


new tti 16.JPG


tti trans crossmember.JPG


tti torsion bar.JPG
 
The shop that originally installed the TTI system (some ten years ago) did not cut off one of the passenger side parking brake cable guide brackets per installation instructions provided. The bracket was just smashed up against the floorboard. This allowed the cable to still use the bracket for support, but did not allow the mufflers to ride high enough near the floorboard.

Today I took the time to properly remove the bracket using a Dremel tool and cutting disc. I called TTI to ask them about the operation of the parking brake cable after removing the factory guide bracket. I was told the parking brake would still function as it should without it.

tti bracket removed 1 .JPG


tti bracket removed 2.JPG
 
After more than 10 years, the TTI system has held up well (but only has about 2,000 miles of use). Today I began the clean-up with a scratch pad and citric cleaner. Before and after shown in the photo:

tti cleaning.JPG
 
The shim company does not recommend their plastic product for motor mount shimming. It's OK for now while we are just testing the waters but I will need to make up a 1/4" steel shim in the near future just to be safe. Message I received:

"Our shims are molded from a high impact styrene resin and I am not sure they are a good fit for motor mount shimming. The static loads would not be a problem, however the dynamic loads during operation are unknown to me and may exceed the 8,000 psi elastic limit and as such cause permanent deformation.

You may be able to find an alternative shim typically made from carbon steel. Typical carbon steel values for the elastic limit would be in the range of 25,000 to 30,000 psi."

copy shim.JPG
 
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