Squareback vs round back alternator?
Hello everyone, we had fun to dive into the electrical system.
First we were trying to figure out and understand the functional differences in the electrical/ignition system on the car itself and the differences to the European (except early UK) systems. It's the first time I am working on a system like that, so it takes some time to reset the mind and don't follow the usual trouble shooting path.
What we don't understand is the difference between the field strengths is controlled by switching the positive feed, or by the negative connection.
What we checked and found so far:
the fuse box and wires are a mess, no infos what safes what.
but we searched and the red 10 Amps is going to the control relay. It's simple 40 Amps check relay that should close and open when current is applied ...
30 goes to the 10 amp fuse
85 comes from IGN2
86 goes to ground
87 goes to alt reg IGN
initially the BAT wasn't charging and the red 10 Amp fuse was popped, I replaced it. Started the engine and another 30 Amps fuse in an extra box popped, the red 10 Amps is ok. You see that there are three cables are soldered together coming from the dash and going to the multi fuse box.
I made a simple wire diagram how it looks like here:
bad to no ground on the alt reg housing, the screws used to hold the reg have a coating and a test revealed bad current flow/high resistance so I placed as a first step an extra cable and different screws to the bulkhead.
We didn't start the engine yet, first we want to be sure we're on the right path.
Here's the question: can we just use this transistorized reg?:
Because here we have the right alt installed if I'm not mistaken the other thread Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)
the actual grounded brush alt:
The Valiant service manual from 1960 says this:
There is also no ignition ballast / IGN coil resistor installed in this car. But there should be regarding all wire drawings so far incl. the one from @Mattax which is from 1962:
Hello everyone, we had fun to dive into the electrical system.
First we were trying to figure out and understand the functional differences in the electrical/ignition system on the car itself and the differences to the European (except early UK) systems. It's the first time I am working on a system like that, so it takes some time to reset the mind and don't follow the usual trouble shooting path.
What we don't understand is the difference between the field strengths is controlled by switching the positive feed, or by the negative connection.
What we checked and found so far:
the fuse box and wires are a mess, no infos what safes what.
but we searched and the red 10 Amps is going to the control relay. It's simple 40 Amps check relay that should close and open when current is applied ...
30 goes to the 10 amp fuse
85 comes from IGN2
86 goes to ground
87 goes to alt reg IGN
initially the BAT wasn't charging and the red 10 Amp fuse was popped, I replaced it. Started the engine and another 30 Amps fuse in an extra box popped, the red 10 Amps is ok. You see that there are three cables are soldered together coming from the dash and going to the multi fuse box.
I made a simple wire diagram how it looks like here:
bad to no ground on the alt reg housing, the screws used to hold the reg have a coating and a test revealed bad current flow/high resistance so I placed as a first step an extra cable and different screws to the bulkhead.
We didn't start the engine yet, first we want to be sure we're on the right path.
Here's the question: can we just use this transistorized reg?:
Because here we have the right alt installed if I'm not mistaken the other thread Identifying Chrysler Alternators (1960-1976)
the actual grounded brush alt:
The Valiant service manual from 1960 says this:
There is also no ignition ballast / IGN coil resistor installed in this car. But there should be regarding all wire drawings so far incl. the one from @Mattax which is from 1962:
