Eagle SIR6123CB rods Vs stock.

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He's not going to have an issue with a stock rod at 400hp. Wake up to yourself. He asked for opinions and he got them.
Personally I like to give my money to fellow Aussies for their work, not ship it overseas if I don't have to..
If the guy want's to spend more than he needs to, to get the job done then that's up to him. Stop ya cryin..
 
I don't think he'd have problems with stock rods at 600HP. But what do I know?
 
Whose cryin? Well, you got something right for once: he asked for opinions & got them.
 
Bewy said:
Whose cryin? Well, you got something right for once: he asked for opinions & got them.
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Got to get things right, I have customers to answer to, do you?
 
Bakerlite said:
Yeah but apparently spending more than you need to is a "no brainier" in this day and age. LOL
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Evidently, for some, yes. I guess they like to follow all the sponsored magazine recommendations. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Evidently, for some, yes. I guess they like to follow all the sponsored magazine recommendations. lol
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It's a difference in being your job and a hobbyist.
When it's your job, it's all based on price and application, when it's a hobby you can spend what you want for whatever reason you want..
If I was doing a job like that, the owner would have a rod that was up to the task and more money in his wallet. That's what makes customers happy.
Sure, I could go cart happy at Summit, throw the best of everything in the engine, but that tends to make them unhappy :)
As I said, I've worked on stuff that in the past cost way more than it needed to be for the performance it had.
 
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Bakerlite said:
As I said, I've worked on stuff that in the past cost way more than it needed to be for the performance it had.
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You just described 99% or more of chevy guys' builds. .......and Mopar guys who have more money than sense.
 
ValiantRacing said:
Check the weight difference, between stock and the SIR rods you will be surprised.
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At least 100 grams lighter each I think. That was also a factor in my decision to purchase the aftermarket rod. Worked out cheaper as well.
 
Barra_67 said:
At least 100 grams lighter each I think. That was also a factor in my decision to purchase the aftermarket rod. Worked out cheaper as well.
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So your trying to say you couldn't get those stock rods sorted for under $600? Which originally was $400?
 
OK, you priced them from Summit for $650 and bought them local for $400.
No worries.
Let me know if you want to sell your stock rods.
 
Friend of mine did some weight/length comparison between a set of stock 440 rods and aftermarket (Scat, I believe). Aftermarket rods were lighter, weights were much more consistent, as were lengths.

That said, I have stock rods in all my motors, mostly because I rebuilt them before inexpensive aftermarket rods were available. None of them race motors, but are pretty fast street cars that have been driven hard. Never had a problem with the stock rods in any of them.

I did break a rod in a 440, though. I rebuilt the junkyard 440 in my Dad's 62 Dodge. Very high mileage, worn out motor - it used a quart of oil every 40 miles. So we bored it .030, new pistons, ground the crank, reconditioned the rods. This was my first motor to rebuild (back around 1980 or so), and it never occurred to me to replace the original rod bolts. Well, one of them broke one day when Dad was hauling ***, breaking the rod (or at least the rod cap), and ruining that cylinder. Have not re-used old rod bolts since.
 
65 Cuda 340 said:
Friend of mine did some weight/length comparison between a set of stock 440 rods and aftermarket (Scat, I believe). Aftermarket rods were lighter, weights were much more consistent, as were lengths.

That said, I have stock rods in all my motors, mostly because I rebuilt them before inexpensive aftermarket rods were available. None of them race motors, but are pretty fast street cars that have been driven hard. Never had a problem with the stock rods in any of them.

I did break a rod in a 440, though. I rebuilt the junkyard 440 in my Dad's 62 Dodge. Very high mileage, worn out motor - it used a quart of oil every 40 miles. So we bored it .030, new pistons, ground the crank, reconditioned the rods. This was my first motor to rebuild (back around 1980 or so), and it never occurred to me to replace the original rod bolts. Well, one of them broke one day when Dad was hauling ***, breaking the rod (or at least the rod cap), and ruining that cylinder. Have not re-used old rod bolts since.
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Right! But once again the rid failure was due to "something else". I have no doubt whatsoever that there have been rods "just let go" but as of yet, I've not seen one. That's always been a contributing factor.

And all the things you say comparing stock to aftermarket are 100% true, BUT can also be corrected with the factory rods. Of course, cost does become a factor, but IMO, you end up with better metal using reworked factory rods.

And yes, I'm basing that opinion only on my own personal experience and everything I've read regarding overseas metallurgy.

Even when looking for antique cooking cast iron pans, you always go to the vintage stuff, because it's much more dense and has much less sand in the casting. Even the new Lodge stuff is total bullshit compared to Griswold, or Wagner or any other older American made cast iron pot or pan. Same is true for other metals too. Unless it just gets way too costly, I'll stick with factory rods.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Right! But once again the rid failure was due to "something else". I have no doubt whatsoever that there have been rods "just let go" but as of yet, I've not seen one. That's always been a contributing factor.

And all the things you say comparing stock to aftermarket are 100% true, BUT can also be corrected with the factory rods. Of course, cost does become a factor, but IMO, you end up with better metal using reworked factory rods.

And yes, I'm basing that opinion only on my own personal experience and everything I've read regarding overseas metallurgy.

Even when looking for antique cooking cast iron pans, you always go to the vintage stuff, because it's much more dense and has much less sand in the casting. Even the new Lodge stuff is total bullshit compared to Griswold, or Wagner or any other older American made cast iron pot or pan. Same is true for other metals too. Unless it just gets way too costly, I'll stick with factory rods.
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If the costs were similar, I'd buy the new rods...Scat I-beam instead of Eagle though.

in regards to cooking pans, I agree the vintage cast iron is much nicer than the new stuff like Lodge at Academy. But I think a new I-Beam rod in cooking terms might be similar to a DeBuyer Mineral B carbon steel pan. I don't use the vintage cast iron much since I got the Mineral B in the same size. The design is a little more refined. The sides are sloped more to allow you to toss stuff in the pan while cooking.
 
cookietruck said:
If the costs were similar, I'd buy the new rods...Scat I-beam instead of Eagle though.
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Yeah, I've always used Scat at the lower end of the scale.
Obviously there is a time and a place to use an aftermarket rod, then you need to factor in who's rod you want to use.
What annoys me is this whole " by the time you do this, you may as well do that (which in the end costs more)" attitude. I've noticed it a lot more in recent years, and it usually ends up with a customer paying more than they needed to.
The last virtually stock BB I did, the owner was told that it wasn't worth overhauling the heads and he should get aftermarket ones. The funny thing was, that assumption was made without even inspecting the heads. Turns out that the heads were pretty good, they were serviced and used for a lot less $$ than new ones. He was very happy about that.
In a case like this, new rod bolts and resizing them would cost me $280, so you can see that's a significant saving over $600(from a place like Summit) for a customer.
And not every rod needs to get resized when replacing the bolts.
 
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