Aluminum Drive Shafts.... thought?

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All aluminum drive shafts I have seen are much larger in diameter than steel ones.

But I am sure one can be made for your needs
 
1350_driveshaft-450x450.jpg


Custom REV™ Series Carbon Fiber Driveshafts | QA1
 
No concerns whatsoever ever. If I have the option for an aluminum shaft over a steel shaft I’ll take it. I’ve used a few crown Victoria aluminum drive shafts in projects and they work great and are considerably lighter.
 
Some of the videos I've seen showed no performance difference. There may have been a very slight performance gain in first '60 ft. With a very slight drop-off on big end. Not enough to draw any conclusions.
 
TT5.9mag said:
No concerns whatsoever ever. If I have the option for an aluminum shaft over a steel shaft I’ll take it. I’ve used a few crown Victoria aluminum drive shafts in projects and they work great and are considerably lighter.
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I got one leaning on the wall in the garage. Who is good to mod it to fit my Dart? I'm seriously considering spending the dough for carbon fiber.

cojohnso said:
Some of the videos I've seen showed no performance difference. There may have been a very slight performance gain in first '60 ft. With a very slight drop-off on big end. Not enough to draw any conclusions.
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It's not as much about performance (although there is a gain there too) but you'll see improved suspension compliance through reduced unsprung mass, and a reduced sensitivity to imbalance since there's less mass spinning underneath.

It benefits several systems at once, including less stress on the tail shaft housing and bearing, and better overall engine acceleration

A lighter driveshaft should not affect big end performance one bit.
 
Removing mass from the drive line is always a good thing. GM in its infinite wisdom started making drive shafts out of fiberglass long about 1988. That didn't last long.
 
@jos51700 I have only used one shop local to me, many, many times. I highly recommend them to anyone in this area.

Aluminum Driveshafts, Yoke, Universal Joint, Composite Driveshaft, Center Support Bearings - Inland Empire Driveline Service

Quick story, I had trouble with a drive shaft I had built for a 56 nomad I put together. LS, 4l60, 9”. Turns out I measured wrong. I called IEDLS (who made the shaft) and told them what I was up against. He said something ain’t right, he drove to my shop and cut the driveshaft he just made for me at my wrong measurements, shortened it and rewelded it with my welder. Mocked it up and it was perfect. He took back to his shop, balanced it, and returned it. FOR NO CHARGE!! He wouldn’t take my money even though it was my mistake. Great, great people.
 
The only benefit I see is the reduction in static weight. Because the OD is so small, any benefit from rotating wt reduction would be small in my opinion. Not like going from a 13" converter to a 10" c'ter.
 
I've only had 1 aluminum shaft and it grenaded on my first burn out. Got it on ebay.....I'm sure a quality unit can be had from a reputable company. BTW the slip yoke wasn't right and I tried swapping over one of my mopar ones..had a 7290 joint and it didn't fit. Called the place as I had requested a 7290 set up and he told me there wasn't an aluminum yoke for that and therefore I got a conversion joint....bad weld....boom. that was 10 years ago.
 
For daily driver I would say it is a waste of money. The only reason I have one on my 51 GMC is that I needed to bolt up to a flat 3 bolt output shaft on my 6061 tremec, and have the in and out capability of a splined shaft and not bind since the rear end is offset because it came from a ford explorer. The company I used incorporated a Porsche CV joint at the front and U-joints at the rear and fabricated it all out of aluminum. It is larger diameter like some have mentioned and cost me an arm and a leg. No, for daily driver I would just go with a steel one but that's just my opinion. Save the money for a tank of gas or something.
 
Diesel Trucks that make 800+ ft/lbs of torque bone stock run aluminum drive shafts for 100's of thousands of miles. So there is no issue with running one in a daily driver.

The issue with an aluminum shaft in an A-body is that you are very limited in space between the driveshaft and the exhaust. Aluminum shafts are larger in diameter, which may cause a fitment interference. Using a smaller diameter aluminum shaft may cause t to not be strong enough.
 
Something else to consider if using deep overdrive transmissions and high freeway type gears, is driveshaft critical speed. The larger diameter shaft has a higher critical speed and this becomes important for fast road race type cars. Not so much on street stuff, but could be a concern.
 
Detroit Iron said:
What opinions do you all have on aluminum drive shafts for daily driver applications?
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I just put a 5 inch, aluminum shaft with upsized 1490 U-joints in my 2008 GMC 2500HD. The shop I got it from said they have guys running this same driveshaft in trucks with 2400hp & 1300 ft lbs of torque without issue.

Got it here.
Aluminum lead sheet

I also went with aluminum driveshaft using 1350 u-joints in my 1968 Barracuda. It's beautiful, and the driveline has never been smoother.

Got it here.
39550 - Mark Williams Enterprises, Inc
 
I had an aluminum driveshaft built for my Cortina. 4"shaft, 1350 joints, and billet steel yokes both ends. Probably way overkill for the car weight, but I wanted a bulletproof drive train, and I got it. I don't remember who built it (it has a manufacturer sticker on it) but it was reasonably priced, at the time. I'm betting it's double what I paid now, at least.
 
jbc426 said:
I just put a 5 inch, aluminum shaft with upsized 1490 U-joints in my 2008 GMC 2500HD. The shop I got it from said they have guys running this same driveshaft in trucks with 2400hp & 1300 ft lbs of torque without issue.

Got it here.
Aluminum lead sheet

I also went with aluminum driveshaft using 1350 u-joints in my 1968 Barracuda. It's beautiful, and the driveline has never been smoother.

Got it here.
39550 - Mark Williams Enterprises, Inc
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Did you mean 1300hp and 2400lb/ft? Common in the diesel world.
 
Bewy said:
The only benefit I see is the reduction in static weight. Because the OD is so small, any benefit from rotating wt reduction would be small in my opinion. Not like going from a 13" converter to a 10" c'ter.
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There may be long term benefits on drivetrain wear? I have not seen data to support. But that certainly doesn't mean doesn't exist.

I have learned that what appears to be "Logical?" Doesn't always equate to facts. This seemed to be the case with regards to flywheel construction. Like always, there appears to be trade offs.
 
TT5.9mag said:
Something else to consider if using deep overdrive transmissions and high freeway type gears, is driveshaft critical speed. The larger diameter shaft has a higher critical speed and this becomes important for fast road race type cars. Not so much on street stuff, but could be a concern.
Click to expand...

I wonder what my shaft is turning with 4.56 gears at 80mph on the freeway? I run a GVOD so this scenario actually happens.

I know my 6 speed cummin with 4.10 gears would run 80 down the interstate as well.
 
I love the one I installed in my '08 BULLITT, but it did replace the crappy two-piece d/s. It weighs 20 lbs. less and is smooth, and the engine accelerates a little quicker. The stock rear gear ratio is 3.73.

I would like one for the Barracuda if one would fit.
 
When I go to the Pull-A-Part in Indy I always look for Cop Car Crown Vic aluminum driveshafts. They are even stamped in ink "Cop Car". I use them in my cars and the best part is they have 1350 U-joints. Just be careful at yards that they haven't picked the car up with an end loader with forks. They trash a lot of driveshafts at yards that do this.

Tom
 
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