To strip or not. to strip...

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Brooks James

VET, CPT, Huey Medevac Pilot
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70 Dart with

Original primer
EV2 hemi orange top coat
Light blue topcoat, and primer
Safety orange top coat

So...5 coats, its flaking down the the original ev2 coat which shows no sanding
Im thinking Im going to strip all paint, chemically
Suggestions for products that have worked for you ??
 
_p_2_p21145_6.jpg


I've never claimed to be a paint guy however I've done it chemically, media, Da, and I believe if I were to do it again this would be in my arsenal. My only advice is have a plan mapped out as to which products you are going to use (primer, sealer, paint, etc.) and stick to it. Don't veer off course in regards to that so there is no question about compatibility. Stripping an old car is just like peeling an Onion..... Lot's of layers and unexpected adventures.

The Contour sander is supposed to not put heat into the metal. I have never used Soda blast and there are of other methods I am sure people will chime in on. It's a messy job no matter what but I think this sander can do the bulk of the work the quickest without damaging the metal....

JW
 
Brooks James, I have one of those Contour strippers brand new in box never used, with multiple heads. If you want it for your project, I'll make you a good deal. PM me if your interested.
 
I second the contour tool. It came out a few years ago when I was stripping a car that some idiot covered in 1/8-3/8" of bondo...for no reason...on top of several layers of paint. I almost purchased the contour tool but Eastwood did not have the abrasive heads for it as they were on back order. I tried chemical stripper-several brands, including aircraft stripper and the new stuff is about as useful as non-stick glue. It is so safe, it doesn't even harm the paint your are trying to remove!

But your question was to strip or not. I say strip it down to bare metal and use a DTM epoxy primer over the bare metal. DTM stands for "direct to metal". Follow all the instructions to a tee and be sure to prime it as soon as you can, even if it means doing a section at a time. Flash rust will occur within minutes of bare metal being exposed, so you want to protect it from that. Again read the instructions for what you are using but they may suggest an etching solution or the primer may be self etching, depending on what you buy. Also, keeping the surface free of silicone and oils is very important. BEFORE you strip it mechanically, wash it with a soapy water followed by a very good wipe down of wax and grease remover, intended for auto body work. Otherwise you may grind the silicones or whatever into the metal and you may get fisheyes in the primer.
 
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That contour sander looks nice, and I would like to try one sometime. Right now I need to strip and paint the rear axle, driveshaft, differential and brakes on the '22 Dodge Bros. My plan is to use a 9" grinder with hook-and-loop type synthetic abrasive pads. That 9" grinder sure is heavy, though, and it tires your arms out pretty soon. I'm not sure if the large grinder and synthetic pads is going to work very well or not, but I would like to avoid sandblasting it if possible because I'm afraid I might get sand in the differential and it might be hard to get out.

DB rear end 12-24-2021.jpg


9-inch grinder.jpg


hook and loop abrasive disc.jpg
 
Big wire CUP on the right angle grinder.
Good brand of oven cleaner.
Wipe it wet with diesel, red scotch brite pad and elbow grease.
Hot pressure washer.
Pay a couple of 15 year old BOYS.
 
I say strip....especially if you gotta nice lookin pair of moobs. Post pics.
 
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