Torsion bars

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72bluNblu said:
Yup, pretty easy to explain, just torque the pivot nuts with the LCA's at the same angle they'll be at ride height. Definitely easier said than done.

Another reason to like Poly or Delrin LCA bushings, the bushings rotate on the pins, they can be torqued anywhere.
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Wouldn't it be less risky to just tighten it with a ratchet while it's on the ground and then use the torque wrench once it's in the air?

I feel like if you're a little off with your angle while you're in the air, then you're going to have that amount of flex once it's torqued and on the ground. Whereas tightening it with the ratchet on the ground should be sufficient enough to hold the LCA at the correct angle once you're in the air and ready to torque.
 
ESP47 said:
Wouldn't it be less risky to just tighten it with a ratchet while it's on the ground and then use the torque wrench once it's in the air?

I feel like if you're a little off with your angle while you're in the air, then you're going to have that amount of flex once it's torqued and on the ground. Whereas tightening it with the ratchet on the ground should be sufficient enough to hold the LCA at the correct angle once you're in the air and ready to torque.
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I mean, the only way to be POSITIVE is to torque them on the ground at ride height. But even then, if the ride height settles out or changes any you have to repeat the process if you want the bushings to be perfectly neutral at ride height.

Realistically, as long as the LCA is at the same angle it shouldn't matter if it's in the air or on the ground, and as long as you're close it should be fine. When you're driving the suspension is constantly moving in one direction or the other and the bushing is flexing back and forth. As long as the bushing isn't flexed past the point where it tears it will be fine. And that shouldn't happen as long as the LCA is reasonably in the middle of its travel when the pivots are tightened.

You know the factory was not this precise on the assembly line.
 
72bluNblu said:
I mean, the only way to be POSITIVE is to torque them on the ground at ride height. But even then, if the ride height settles out or changes any you have to repeat the process if you want the bushings to be perfectly neutral at ride height.

Realistically, as long as the LCA is at the same angle it shouldn't matter if it's in the air or on the ground, and as long as you're close it should be fine. When you're driving the suspension is constantly moving in one direction or the other and the bushing is flexing back and forth. As long as the bushing isn't flexed past the point where it tears it will be fine. And that shouldn't happen as long as the LCA is reasonably in the middle of its travel when the pivots are tightened.

You know the factory was not this precise on the assembly line.
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Yeah I made this mistake the first time I rebuilt my suspension. Tightened the UCA and LCAs in the air and it squeaked like crazy a couple weeks later. Wound up having to redo all the most difficult parts of the suspension rebuild all over again.
 
ESP47 said:
Yeah I made this mistake the first time I rebuilt my suspension. Tightened the UCA and LCAs in the air and it squeaked like crazy a couple weeks later. Wound up having to redo all the most difficult parts of the suspension rebuild all over again.
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I'm sure a lot of people don't pay that much attention to it. I know I didn't when I was using rubber bushings. I mean, I tightened everything on the ground as per the FSM but was the suspension fully settled? And I've definitely adjusted the ride height without changing the position the LCA pivots were torqued in.

Another reason to like Poly and Delrin LCA bushings. Tighten them wherever you want, doesn't make a difference.
 
I got my Delrins, but the shafts exited the box enroute. So Peter is sending another set. It will be August before I can get back to it.
 
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