68 Barracuda Front Suspension Rebuild Kit

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66fs said:
As usual we will disagree, glad to hear you stopped referring to the 67 design incorrectly as a single shear design. As you said Engineering statics. Have you done FEA? Agreed, 67 is harder to source a quality piece. But I will not cut off and weld a 68 up Idler mount on a 67 K Frame, sounds like a disaster to me.
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I didn't stop, there's no concept of shear where a '67 idler mount is in double shear. The stud is in single shear at the mount, because that's all it can be with a single plate mount.

So, it's a cantilever mount that puts the idler stud in single shear.

Now, is it dangerous? No. But it's an inherently weaker design than the double shear mount that replaced it in '68 and going forward. For a cruiser with narrow tires and low annual mileage, whatever. Spend a grip on a single idler that will probably last the next 30 years. For a car set up with wider, stickier tires and driven frequently? Nah, replace the K for one with the improved idler mount. For a handling set up don't even mess with '68-72, go with '73+ for the better sway bar mounting and routing.

As far as adding a '68+ style mount, anyone that can take some accurate measurements and weld can do it without too much difficulty. Members here have built a jig to locate one, it's not all that hard. It certainly doesn't have to be a "disaster" if you understand basic geometry and can weld as well as the factory did, which is a really low bar.
 
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unless you have or know somebody with good fabrication skills and inherent knowledge of steering geometry and the design specific to these cars-- or access to a 68~72 k-member that you can measure closely and pattern a mount off of-- converting the 67 to 68+ style is a tall order.

upgrading to 68~72 or 73+ is a much better path forward. yes, there are associated expenses involved, but going forward you'd have a more "coherent" steering system in place.

the most likely scenario is that the idler arm is just waxed ***. replace, or replace + upgrade to a rollerized bearing is probably the easiest path forward, but that too comes with expense (500 clams, five or take)
 
Some guy on here recently converted a '67 idler mount to a '68 and up style mount. Pictures were posted up etc. K frame was out of the car. I dont recall where it was but recently on here.

If it were my car I would swap a later k frame in there my 2 cents. Easier to get parts, stronger, be done with it.
 
340sFastback said:
Some guy on here recently converted a '67 idler mount to a '68 and up style mount. Pictures were posted up etc. K frame was out of the car. I dont recall where it was but recently on here.

If it were my car I would swap a later k frame in there my 2 cents. Easier to get parts, stronger, be done with it.
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www.forabodiesonly.com

1969 Dart Pro touring daily driver **Crashed**

I just read through this whole thread. You did some great work under the hood there. All around great car! I am interested in that lift. Can you share some details about it? Make, Model, do you like it? Cley
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

starts about post #90 or so
 
72bluNblu said:
I didn't stop, there's no concept of shear where a '67 idler mount is in double shear. The stud is in single shear at the mount, because that's all it can be with a single plate mount.

So, it's a cantilever mount that puts the idler stud in single shear.

Now, is it dangerous? No. But it's an inherently weaker design than the double shear mount that replaced it in '68 and going forward. For a cruiser with narrow tires and low annual mileage, whatever. Spend a grip on a single idler that will probably last the next 30 years. For a car set up with wider, stickier tires and driven frequently? Nah, replace the K for one with the improved idler mount. For a handling set up don't even mess with '68-72, go with '73+ for the better sway bar mounting and routing.

As far as adding a '68+ style mount, anyone that can take some accurate measurements and weld can do it without too much difficulty. Members here have built a jig to locate one, it's not all that hard. It certainly doesn't have to be a "disaster" if you understand basic geometry and can weld as well as the factory did, which is a really low bar.
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I'll start a thread on the incorrect info you put out. I'll tag you.
 
Aside from NOS idler arm options, are there any other remanufacture options out there? I'll give that route a go to see if it holds up. The only option I see is from Andersen restorations. 1967 Plymouth Barracuda New Idler Arm Also, I am going to adjust my UCA's (Hotchkis 1112) this weekend to get my alignment more acceptable for the time being. They require that I completely remove the UCA from the wheel tub to adjust, which is a burden but it is what it is. Do I need to release the torsion before I remove or can I just jack the vehicle up and let the suspension Hang?
 
I jack up from lower control arm, place jack stand under frame rail for safety, keep jack under control arm and jack stand under frame rail (not touching) frame rail. Remove tire and then separate UCA from spindle. You may need a wire to keep spindle assembly from tugging on your brake line. Torsion bar stays at set adjustment.
 
Another problematic area here. The way my exhaust comes off the headers is making contact with my pitman arm. Aside from fabricating a new section of exhaust pipe to have enough clearance, can anything else be done? Currently, the bottom of the exhaust comes in contact with the top of the pitman when making a turn and barely clears when cruising straight down the road. This was the previous owners work and went as far as beating a dip into the exhaust to make "clearance." Also, it almost rests on the starter, which is heat soaking the hell out of it I imagine. Can't even get a permanent grease fitting on it.

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Mcfarlrm said:
Another problematic area here. The way my exhaust comes off the headers is making contact with my pitman arm. Aside from fabricating a new section of exhaust pipe to have enough clearance, can anything else be done? Currently, the bottom of the exhaust comes in contact with the top of the pitman when making a turn and barely clears when cruising straight down the road. This was the previous owners work and went as far as beating a dip into the exhaust to make "clearance." Also, it almost rests on the starter, which is heat soaking the hell out of it I imagine. Can't even get a permanent grease fitting on it.

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This is a common problem even with the factory exhaust. The '73+ steering link flipped the joint so the nut on the pitman was on the bottom and turned the outer tie rod end 90°.

Assuming that the pitman isn't damaged, you don't have a lot of options. You could shim the top bolts on the steering box mount, but, that will effect your bump steer too. Since you have a '67 K-frame, swapping to a '73+ steering link isn't an option.
 
72bluNblu said:
This is a common problem even with the factory exhaust. The '73+ steering link flipped the joint so the nut on the pitman was on the bottom and turned the outer tie rod end 90°.

Assuming that the pitman isn't damaged, you don't have a lot of options. You could shim the top bolts on the steering box mount, but, that will effect your bump steer too. Since you have a '67 K-frame, swapping to a '73+ steering link isn't an option.
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Looks like I may have to find a local welder/fabricator/muffler shop to do a custom exhaust section to clear it. Any ideas to how much someone like that would/should charge? I can't imagine it would be much with mild steel.
 
Mcfarlrm said:
Looks like I may have to find a local welder/fabricator/muffler shop to do a custom exhaust section to clear it. Any ideas to how much someone like that would/should charge? I can't imagine it would be much with mild steel.
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Would depend on the local shop rates. They'd have to put it up on the lift, drop the steering link, cut out a section out of the exhaust and weld in a new one, reinstall the steering link, etc. Figure at least several hours of labor, so probably not all that cheap.
 
Mcfarlrm said:
Looks like I may have to find a local welder/fabricator/muffler shop to do a custom exhaust section to clear it. Any ideas to how much someone like that would/should charge? I can't imagine it would be much with mild steel.
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Here it would be cheap. Find an old guy that really knows what he is doing. Should be a piece of cake.
 
Kendog 170 said:
I jack up from lower control arm, place jack stand under frame rail for safety, keep jack under control arm and jack stand under frame rail (not touching) frame rail. Remove tire and then separate UCA from spindle. You may need a wire to keep spindle assembly from tugging on your brake line. Torsion bar stays at set adjustment.
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he doesn't need to separate the the UCA and spindle. just pull the assembly out from the mount and adjust the rod ends, and knock it all back together.

personally, i pull the tension off the t-bars when working on the suspension, but i guess that's a personal judgement call as to what your individual level of risk acceptability is.
 
junkyardhero said:
personally, i pull the tension off the t-bars when working on the suspension, but i guess that's a personal judgement call as to what your individual level of risk acceptability is.
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Agreed. If working on UCA only I've never had an issue but if you've never been there you should play it safe. My 98 Durango use to go through lower ball joints frequently. I would change them with a jack under the control arm and jack stand 1/4" under frame rail. FSM says remove LCA after removing torsion bar and press out ball joint. Reset ride height and realign. I would press balljoint with lower control arm in place, reattach and go. 1 hour job not all day and an alignment appointment.
 
What is the grease fitting size for the outer tie rod ends? Or, does it all depend? I figured 1/4" x 28 but having a hard time getting the fittings to thread.
 
Mcfarlrm said:
What is everyone's thoughts on Moog suspension components?
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Avoid at all costs, total garbage.

Proforged is making good components, all the stuff I’ve bought from them has good tolerances and fit well.

I’ve had issues with Moog ball joints and tie rod ends. Extremely loose or extremely tight brand new out of the box. Got a nut with a ball joint that had no threads. Other members here have posted that their control arm bushings are out of spec. Moog’s changes in production locations have resulted in piss poor quality control.

Here’s some info on their LCA bushing specs…
LCA pin loose in bushing
 
I'll take a look into Proforged. Appreciate the recommendation.
 
Mcfarlrm said:
What is everyone's thoughts on Moog suspension components?
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only good for the UCA "problem solver" bushings.

like other's i've had problems with moog lately as well. proforge is affordable and good. AC delco if you can find it, but give a hairy eyeball to the LCA bushings some are not so great. TRW is hit and miss, so make sure you can return it if you order
 
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