moog problem solvers creating problems....

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shep76

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Anyone else experience this? I installed the K7103's and now my UCA doesn't fit. The bushings are fully seated and I've tried to squish the ferrels on tighter but no luck.... Anyone have any fixes for this?

moog.jpg
 
I had a little trouble but ended up finding the right way to slide it in. Maybe line it up on top then tap in (down) with a mallet? It should be doable.
 
I have installed a LOT of those bushings over time and I always leave those washers off. The factory installed nothing like that.
 
I have installed a LOT of those bushings over time and I always leave those washers off. The factory installed nothing like that.
If you leave it off, they are loosey goosey... Maybe just leave the inside one on? Without the ferrels they are much narrower than the stock bushings.
 
I had a little trouble but ended up finding the right way to slide it in. Maybe line it up on top then tap in (down) with a mallet? It should be doable.
I was just a bit hesitant to start pounding on it... I didn't want to bend the attachment point...
 
If you leave it off, they are loosey goosey... Maybe just leave the inside one on?
Did you press them on? The proper way if you want to use them is to get them in a vise and press them in good.
 
Did you press them on? The proper way if you want to use them is to get them in a vise and press them in good.
Yes, three or four times I tried. Seems like they are all the way on but there's really no way to tell. I'll give it another shot.
 
they 100% go on with the locating washers. sometimes the tabs get bent in a little from the arms being adjusted/tightened, prying them out a wee bit helps. the fit in there is very snug and a little tappy von tapperson with the deadblow is a-okay for install. if you gotta reef on it, something's wrong.
 
they 100% go on with the locating washers. sometimes the tabs get bent in a little from the arms being adjusted/tightened, prying them out a wee bit helps. the fit in there is very snug and a little tappy von tapperson with the deadblow is a-okay for install. if you gotta reef on it, something's wrong.
So.....and I'm not arguing here, just posing a question. Why were they not used from the factory? Of all of the upper arm bushings I've replaced, not a one had those washers originally.
 
So.....and I'm not arguing here, just posing a question. Why were they not used from the factory? Of all of the upper arm bushings I've replaced, not a one had those washers originally.
i honestly don't know. my hazard to guess would be that the bean counters and engineers got together at the behest of some muckity-muck to save $0.05 per car and that's what they decided on.

maybe part of the "problem solver" is also that the washers provide a longer life span to the bushing that was not intended within the scope of the original parts? i mean, these cars were built to be disposable.

i dunno man, i'm just three raccoons in a trenchcoat that somehow knows which end of the wrench to hold.
 
The factory does have washers, although not ones that grab the inner sleeve. I believe these are there so that the tabs on the inner fender can grab the whole bushing and lock the center sleeve in place when the arm moves.
 
i honestly don't know. my hazard to guess would be that the bean counters and engineers got together at the behest of some muckity-muck to save $0.05 per car and that's what they decided on.

maybe part of the "problem solver" is also that the washers provide a longer life span to the bushing that was not intended within the scope of the original parts? i mean, these cars were built to be disposable.

i dunno man, i'm just three raccoons in a trenchcoat that somehow knows which end of the wrench to hold.
You forgot the rabid fox again.
 
You forgot the rabid fox again.
i mean, at this point it's just assumed right? like Junkyardhero Esq. III His Magnificence, Master of Disaster, Collector of Enemies Souls, King **** of Turd Mountain, Forklift Certified has a nice ring to it, but it just gets a little long of a business card...
 
So.....and I'm not arguing here, just posing a question. Why were they not used from the factory? Of all of the upper arm bushings I've replaced, not a one had those washers originally.



moog-moog-k7006-360-giant-01-19-2038920947.jpg

Granted they are different, but that's do to the design of the offset bushing.. Going without the washers is a mistake....
 


View attachment 1716218477
Granted they are different, but that's do to the design of the offset bushing.. Going without the washers is a mistake....

Maybe that's what I am remembering. They are certainly different from those on the offset bushings. I admit, it's been a long time since I've had a Mopar front end apart.......it's coming soon though. lol
 
Thing is when you tighten the adjuster your creating a clamping force, it's supposed to clamp the inner tube... It does that by pressing on the washers which transfer force through the tube.... Without the washers the tube slides into the adjuster slot and the force is applied to the rubber bushing & the outer sleeve... The outer sleeve has to rotate when the arm moves... So now you have the bushing sleeve sliding on the metal where the arm is clamped.... Seems like a really bad idea...

The problem solver bushings aren't as well made as they use to be but they do still preform a useful purpose if you are willing to do the work needed to dial them in...

To the O/P, did you get the washers to slip inside the tube and fully seat? I usually throw each washer in my lathe and chamfer the part that slides into the sleeve (I use to do this with a angle grinder)... And I chamfer both ends of the sleeves... Next I use a bolt and a nut to draw the bushing together till the washers are fully seated.... And finally I run a drill with a 1/2" bit through the bushing prior to install to make sure the adjuster/eccentric bolts will pass through without fighting me....
 
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RRR, here's a shot of two OE UCA's the upper one is big joint 74 val with 80 some on the clock, the lower is small joint 72 duster with mid 60's on the clock.

l626dhAl.jpg


to the owners knowledge they are both 100% OE, on taking them apart i didn't see anything that would indicate that anybody was in there mucking about. the 72 was wearing 80's tigerpaws when it rolled in (technically pushed in).

[i didn't have these just sitting on my bench, had to go dig for them. fwiw, the LCA bushings on both cars were totally waxed ***]
 
RRR, here's a shot of two OE UCA's the upper one is big joint 74 val with 80 some on the clock, the lower is small joint 72 duster with mid 60's on the clock.

View attachment 1716218498

to the owners knowledge they are both 100% OE, on taking them apart i didn't see anything that would indicate that anybody was in there mucking about. the 72 was wearing 80's tigerpaws when it rolled in (technically pushed in).

[i didn't have these just sitting on my bench, had to go dig for them. fwiw, the LCA bushings on both cars were totally waxed ***]
Yeah, after seeing these, I'm sure all of them I've worked on had them. They were blended with rust. lol
 
Thing is when you tighten the adjuster your creating a clamping force, it's supposed to clamp the inner tube... It does that by pressing on the washers which transfer force through the tube.... Without the washers the tube slides into the adjuster slot and the force is applied to the rubber bushing & the outer sleeve... The outer sleeve has to rotate when the arm moves... So now you have the bushing sleeve sliding on the metal where the arm is clamped.... Seems like a really bad idea...

The problem solver bushings aren't as well made as they use to be but they do still preform a useful purpose if you are willing to do the work needed to dial them in...

To the O/P, did you get the washers to slip inside the tube and fully seat? I usually throw each washer in my lathe and chamfer the part that slides into the sleeve (I use to do this with a angle grinder)... And I chamfer both ends of the sleeves... Next I use a bolt and a nut to draw the bushing together till the washers are fully seated.... And finally I run a drill with a 1/2" bit through the bushing prior to install to make sure the adjuster/eccentric bolts will pass through without fighting me....
I did not do all that but I did press the washers in with a ball joint press. They seemed to be fully seated to me. I may try again.
 
I’m calling it. Its off by a full quarter inch. This isn’t going to just be a little tappy tapper with a hammer. I’m going to try another bushing.
 
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