I have a problem with my Holley 600 (4160)

I re-jetted to the 69's today and got rid of most of the detonation. It was too lean.

Thats' cool. But I think you are still too lean. Maybe go to 72s even just to get the timing worked out. The order of operations is always timing, then carb settings.

I set initial timing at 35 while at 2500 rpm. Those two things seemed to help, we are on the right track, I think. I spoke with my son this afternoon and he wants me to set intial timing while at 3000 rpm and if it stops the detonation he thinks my distributor is putting to much total timing in and that my distributor is not right.

I disagree on his method.. He wants to "see" the total advance... but now you have the adjustable light, and if the distributor is not set right, you can still have more advance than is shown at 3000 rpm. Especially with an MP distributor...

I bought a advance timing light today and I have to learn to use it right.

Great purchase, and yes you do... They are great. it's easy. You use the "0" reference on the cover, and the "0" mark on the balancer, and the dial to find where it's really set, for any rpm. I would advise going up to 4500rpm until you know what it's doing. You will be looking for the rpm where the centrifical advance stops adding timing. It could be anywhere from 2200 to 4000 in an MP or stock distributor.

What is total timing?

Total is just what it says.. All the advance added together give total. Most common definition does not include vacuum advance because at full throttle, with factory type source, vacuum advance does not have any affect at idle or Wide Open Throttle.

How do you know if your vacuum advance is working?

I just add vacuum (hand pump or mouth...lol) to it while the engine's running. If the timing/rpm changes, it's working. BTW, you will want to unplug it from the dist. and plug the hose for the rest of the timing setting part...

Do I have my distributor vacuum line hooked to the correct port? It is hooked to the port coming from the metering block. Is that right or should it be connected to the port which I have blocked off in the front of the carb at the base?

It's in the right spot.


The order is this...
1. Check vacuum pot for operation... if it passes, plug hose to carb for now. If it fails, replace it or distributor if the dist is stock. MP unit has all you need.
2. lower idle speed to under 700 rpm
3. check initial timing at idle.
4. set dial or advance on light to 30°, have a friend slowly increase the rpms to 4500. Notice what rpm the advancing stops, and what the total advance is using the dial/advance feature on the light.
4A. if initial is under 10° and total is higher than 30°, you will need to adjust the centrifical advance before proceeding.
4B. if initial is over 10° and total is less than 30, add 6-8° to initial and reset carb to base idle and mixtures.

Once initial and centrifical timing is set, the carb will need attention, as will the vacuum pod. So this is the first part of the equasion.