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I just said what everyone else was thinkin :p

Thought maybe you were gusseting the frame for a late night Walmart rendezvous!

I really should have done this when I installed the QA1 strut rods, guess I’ll do it when I install my QA 1 K member, thanks for the reminder!

Right on, glad it worked out for ya!

It has to be something with your alignment. I’m running QA1 uppers and mine look like this on launch with 5 1/2” of travel.

I would try putting it socket side down on the welding table and hitting the bottom lip with a brass drift. Should loosen it up enough to rotate.

Yep, or something like this.

Well done Sir, well done!

Go getem John!

Cool, definitely need the spacer to get the proper pull-up to the flex plate so the converter is bottomed against the pump. Will the converter pads go up against the flex plate without bottoming in the crank? Lost two thrust bearings to that myself, want some clearance from the end of the...

Might need one more click, should be 1 1/4 from ring gear to front of case. If you rock the converter back and forth can you hear the pump engagement, should be slight clicking/tapping?

That’s where mine has been for about 6 years with no problem. For a while in the 80’s (I believe) home wiring was made of aluminum, it conducts just fine just not very malleable.

Looks like Hemi wiped a lobe on his left ear!

Whenever there is crab involved I hurt myself on butter:lol:

And there’s butter left over!

Wait, what? You need to fill that bowl with butter!

Yep Wagner adjustable PCV, have one on the Dart and is a nice piece. https://mewagner.com/?p=444

Not sure what you’re unhappy about, I think it looks great! You have a very nice looking driveshaft tunnel, especially considering it was all done by hand, don’t be so hard on yourself :)

Glad to see you back, even if it’s only once in a while! Learned a lot from your posts and hope to continue doing so.

Really nice work, looks very smooth and radiused!

May have missed it, but what are you using to roll the metal?

I’ve been waiting for this :thumbsup:

Crackedback used to have a machinist buddy that made them, but he stopped doing it years ago. foursecondsflat makes them. https://www.4secondsflat.com/MSD%20Distributor%20Tuning.htm I just made my own out of aluminum rod. The diameters apparently are... 0.386" = 14° and 0.394" = 10° ID=...

:lol: Come on by, I live 14 miles from there and can show you the way:thumbsup:

Just so you know, I had to have the adj prop valve to my rears to avoid rear lockup, your results may differ from mine.

Barona my home track, looks like you’re a Patterson too! Tom Patterson

Like ValiantS I have a Summit adj prop valve inline with the rear brakes, running Willwood up front and factory drums in the rear. Mounted the prop valve to the inner fender well by the shock tower.

Nice work John!

Just got done doing the Ram and Hellcat. The biggest pain was polishing out the paint and fitting the Ram in the garage and closing the door as they have to sit 24hrs before being outside. I decided to go ceramic to protect the paint in California sun and ease of cleaning.