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That’s what’s so great about boost. You don’t have to build a rowdy, temperamental beast. If it doesn’t make the power you want just turn the boost up a few psi. Looks absolutely awesome by the way.

Researching now

Haven’t heard of EcuMaxx race. Is this it? MaxxECU - The modern ECU

I’m in the planning stages of a drag and drive car for myself currently as well, and I’ll be using a turbo magnum 5.9 with a tremec T56 magnum. But mine will be blow through carbureted. I’d suggest narrowing down the hard parts of the build plan (engine, trans, diff) then decide on electronics...

Lift (or max lift) has almost nothing to do with P to V. It’s not how far the valve opens, it’s when and how long it opens. Duration has the biggest impact on P to V clearance. @Dan the man watch this video

You’ll have to define the build a little more to get better input but for a magnum with factory EFI and a 46re trans it’s hard to beat the jtec ecu with HP Tuners, prior to hp tuners support I ran an MS3 piggy backed on top of the jtec and that was a nightmare. I have experience with Holley...

:rofl: I’ve got a 1200hp turbo LS I could ship to you. Couple more psi and some methanol and you’re there. I couldn’t let you do that though. Ultimately, get the car out on the salt and make runs, have fun, make memories that you’ll never regret. If you get serious about setting that record...

I like where your head is at. But I also would absolutely love to see you get a record in a class.

Ah no inner engine compartment bodywork, I got ya. Like I said earlier, I can’t wait to see what you come up with. Just keep in mind the engine compartment is a large, low pressure area and moving (manipulating) air through, around, over it is a big deal. You definitely don’t want to pack the...

nacca ducts on the front fenders behind the tire plumbed to the engine compartment. Plumbing the engine compartment through the cowl and into the doors would be cool but too complicated imo.

Can’t wait to see what you come up with.

I’ve seen em hit at .470 true valve lift, and seen some ok at .512 true lift. Because of the horrible pushrod angle, you have to measure at the valve and not just go by the lift on the cam card. As with anything engine building, the correct answer is, you have to measure.

Hey Bill, have you tried leaving from idle and letting the engine hit the converter?

Oh yea. That looks awesome. You’re going to want to research frontal area and look to improve that. You’re basically pushing a barn door at this point.

The magnum cylinder heads will need to have the guide bosses cut down to run any decent amount of lift.

I do too. But with a 904.

The difference between cruising at 13:1 AFR and 15:1 isn’t that drastic with regard to MPGs. But if you’re really interested in getting mileage out of it you’ll end up cruising at 15:1 (or maybe even leaner). But you can’t do that without timing, you have to stick a bunch of timing in it at your...

Never noticed the outer rim on mine making contact, just the pads. 2001 5.9 magnum stock flexplate bolted to a 72 904 with stock converter.

They don’t need any more innovation and NHRA doesn’t want more. (Remember the laid back header deal a few years ago? And why they now race 1000 feet? NHRA is trying to keep them from going any faster.

10 initial and 34 total doesn’t really tell us anything about your curve. You need rpm with it to understand what your timing is and when. If it’s all in at 3500 and you’re cruising at 2800 then you really don’t have enough cruise timing. Plot your timing against rpm and like I said before, if...

Power valve has nothing to do with economy, in cruise you aren’t anywhere near getting in to the power valve circuit. You need more cruise timing if you want MPGs.

Oh and keep your foot out of it.

Learn how to tune the carb and if you’re not running ported vacuum advance with around 45-48 degrees of cruise timing you should be.

Yes, there are 3 manufacturers of top fuel and fuel funny car intake manifolds, AJE, JFR, and I think the third was DSR (I could be wrong on number 3), and only those three are allowed by NHRA. The teams are not allowed to modify them in any way shape or form.

In So Cal, my go to place for complete takeout engines (wiring harness, ecu, and all) is Indiana Truck salvage in corona. Great people to deal with and fair prices. The last 5.9 magnum I bought complete was $700 with 91,000 miles on it.

It’s the flexplate. And it’s super easy, takes about 30 seconds with a die grinder. Magnum 5.9 crank and flexplate that was in front of a 904. See the close up below. That hole just needs to be elongated slightly.

I’m kinda on the fence on both sides. The rules state that no modification is allowed to any of the three accepted intakes. A surface finish change is a modification in my book. Wether it qualifies as an advantage or not does not matter, it’s a modification. But I was glad to see Bob didn’t pack...

I wouldn’t try too terribly hard to make it a perfect completely original car, you won’t want to drive it. A few selective upgrades (like power disk brakes) won’t hurt value at all and you will enjoy driving the car much more.

I absolutely can see someone adding a power booster. It’s not uncommon at all. It’s amazing all the little things you’ll find that people have added to a 50 year old car, and if they added it 30 years ago it will look original.

Headers will improve even a stock engine, and will help make any future modifications work better. The headache of installing them and driving a car with them (if you use any of the ones that pass below the steering) is a personal decision, but to say they won’t make a difference is not true.