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Newbomb Turk. Brain surgeon & rocket scientist. You are an absolute dope. You twist words & see things that are not there. You claim that HP is measured. People faaaaaaaaaaaaar smarter than you say that it is calculated. Any engineer will tell you the same thing. Hence me quoting Harold Bettes...

Below is from the book Engine Airflow, by the late Harold Bettes. It is a book about using airflow to increase horsepower. Since there are numerous parameters involved along the way, a few pages are devoted to these. Surprise, surprise torque is one of them. Way back in post #38 I said tq moves...

I do not know why people still mess with points ign, unless it is a true 100% rest deal. What's next, modifying the front of the engine so it can be started with a crank handle...

Nwebomb Turk. Go way, you are such a dope. Only in your world does the sun rise in the west....

273, Learn to read. I NEVER said in post #38 that rpm [ or movement ] was not reqd to produce HP. It is. You can have tq by itself [ with no hp ], but you cannot have HP without tq.

Re-grinding a stock cam to get more lift will leave the lobe physically much smaller..... You may need longer prods. Not the best solution.

You said you had recently fixed 'issues'. What issues? Maybe they are back.....

The #2642242 tag # in my Motors Manual lists the dist for 1966 273 4bbl.

The usual suspects have promoted their usual BS. Torque is what moves cars. The Bosch 9Th Edition Automotive Handbook is 1540 pages of fine print. It lists 6 pages of contributing authors, engineers & scientists. On p. 39, the definition of power is a simple one liner: ' Power is the work...

For a mild engine like this, having the shafts upside down will have no long term problem. It just means on initial start up, the oil now has to fill the shafts to the top so that the oil can exit the shaft holes. This will happen veeeeery quickly as without the holes being at the bottom of the...

...270 Mega cam. I have used a lot of the Mega cams. The tight 108 LSA is going to give you more HP. 221 @ 050 might not sound that big, but it has 12* more overlap than the same grind on 114*. Single pattern, lift will be 0.496" with 1.6 rockers. Remember, easy to go too big. Have factory...

There is no 750 AVS2........

Dan, If you can find a TQ.......just run it. I could never work out why a 440 with a TQ [ #6410 ] had .125" sec jets but a #6454 used on a 360 had .143"sec jets. Jet size is NOT related to engine size. If you use a TQ on a 318, you may have to change jet sizes &/or met rods. What you will...

QJ is a spreadbore like the TQ. Same bolt pattern. You need to check fitment to the intake to make sure all the passages in the carb base are covered & that linkages do not foul etc....

650 AVS2 or TQ.

Perfect. I would re-use them.

Agree that cam will be a dog in a 318, so I hope you like dogs...... A much more streetable cam would be the Isky 270 Mega

If the gaskets are the thin shim steel type, the 'Marine' gaskets might be s/stainless steel to reduce corrosion. I know Mancini used to sell s/s gaskets for the BB because I bought some.

If your engine likes 20* initial, leave it there. It is telling you something. Low comp engines need more timing, all else being equal. You have two options: reduce the total. Taking 2-4* may cure the detonation...& not hurt the top end. Other option is slow the centri adv curve.

The factory Pontiac dampener on the V8 engine with a factory crank is a slide on fit. Period. Some after market cranks are slightly oversize on the crank snout such that the D no longer slides on. Same deal on aftermarket Ds, often will not slide on. I have lost count of how many Ds I have had...

No, this isn't a Pontiac, but it works exactly the same: conrods, crank, pistons, timing chain etc, etc. If you do the bolt up tight enough, the dampener won't move [ it is not a balancer, it is a harmonic dampener that has been balanced ]. There has never been any problems such as broken...

It will be ok, but you need more tq on the bolt. Millions of Pontiac engines had dampeners that slid in place by hand...............& didn't fail. They used a 5/8" bolt that was torqued to 160. Nothing special about the bolt except it was grade 8. From memory, Chrys used a 3/4" bolt, so...

You do not need to pull the c/valve apart. Just find a spacer [ an old bolt cut to size or whatever ] to put under the p'rod seat.

And.....

22* at idle is about half of what you would need with that cam. T/blades are open too far at idle; which is why backing out the mixture screws richens the cruise. You can use an adj vac adv unit to give another 18-20* at idle [ connect to man vacuum]. A 440 I tuned recently idles at 42* with...

The first thing you need to do is see if the pop comes from the intake or the exhaust; because the causes/remedies are a whole lot different for each.....

What is the idle timing? Depending on what the cruise rpm is, you might be cruising on the T/slot.....or the main system. Am I reading this right: best idle is 1/4 turn out from seated? That suggests too much T/slot is exposed at idle.

Good job. I like to see creative builds.

Post #5 & 6

If you can find the 'right' chemical solution, it might be salvageable. Solution would need to remove the alum corrosion, but not affect steel & brass parts.