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No, not even close. When I measured for driveshafts on my 68 and 66 Darts, both only showed about 1/8" - 3/16" difference from full compression to full droop. Most driveshaft shops will have you insert the yoke all the way in until it stops, take a centerline measurement on front and rear...

I'm thinking it wasn't zeroed out. Look closely at the scale. The Mancini one looks to be close to 150mm, whereas the original looks to be maybe 146mm. Not sure what's up with the LCD display.

If the belt grooves are in line and the ratios are what you want, there's no reason why the set up won't work. The alternator pulley looks backwards to me, but if the groove is lined up with the other two, it should still work.

Guys are running larger cams than that on stock roller setups. How much lift with stock magnum roller lifters? It's lobe lift you'd want to consider though, not valve lift.

Access holes are the only way to go in my opinion. That's the route I went on my '66 Dart. I also went with socket cap bolts on those top two to make it easier to feed the bolts through. Makes taking the transmission out a whole lot easier, especially in an early A body.

You shouldn't have to grind anything. Like others said, I'd be on the phone with Mancini and see what they had to say.

I would think it would be better to have one a little on the large side in that spot to squeeze the gasket better, than on the thin side. I bet if you bolt it up, it'd be fine. It'll just squeeze the gasket a little more, which isn't necessarily a bad thing. Only one way to find out.

It may just be an optical illusion though because the drum LBJ is thinner. Only one way to find out.

Side by side:

What makes you say that??? There are tons of modified hotrods in California.

Have you checked the FSM? They usually have procedures in them for reinstalling glass. I know the windshield installation procedure calls for sealant on the bottom half. Not sure about the rear glass though.

At the very least, be sure to take it apart to see what's going on before you buy anything. There are several versions of these couplers and they're all slightly different. You may be able to use the shoes in that kit, but you won't be able to use the seal, seal retainer, or spring. Hopefully...

Did you try giving them a call? They'd know better than a bunch of Mopar boneheads on the internet. The site works fine for me btw.

Keep in mind you won't be able to use most of the parts in the kit Rick posted. Your coupler is a completely different shape. I went through the same thing on the couple on my '66 Dart.

Pour some acid on it. Either Phosphoric or Muriatic should work. Then cover it with plastic to slow it from drying. You want it to stay moist. It shouldn't take long. Once converted, hose it down with water.

Is there a fuel leak somewhere? How is mileage being calculated (i.e., how is distance being determined - gps, stock gauge, google maps, etc)?

Which LEDs did you go with?

Mopar A Body 63-66, B Body 62-65 Oval Plastic Firewall Plug

How would you retain the lifter dog bones? Older LA blocks don't have the bosses cast into the block in the valley for the lifter spider bolts. Plus, I believe the lifter bores are shorter and would uncover the oil grooves on the lifters.

Trick flow for the win.

A soft old beach towel works fine for me.

The seals for a 68, 69, 70... are all the same. They only changed HOW they install. Later ones go in from the front. Just get one and pound it in. Don't overthink it.

No, you're fine. Put a new seal in the timing cover and test fit the balancer if you'd like. Should fit fine.

One has the seal install from the front and one has the seal install from the backside. That new one is like the later model version (76-and later I believe?) which installs the seal from the front.

Yeah, disconnect the throttle cable. Maybe it's hanging it open.

What's the other issue?

Yeah, if it's a 2-corner idle deal, it won't have idle mixture screws on the secondary side. Pretty easy to tell if you look at it closely. edit - or you can look up the list number to see if it's supposed to have 2- or 4-corner idle adjustment.

$1,500?

Looks great! I'd paint them.

Which ones - as in what brand and model?