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Agreed- the Air Gaps do a pretty good job of isolating the carb from heat. (Kinda the whole idea of an "air gap" design- to keep the runners/fuel charge and carb cooler...)

I REALLY like that!

That's not General Lee, that's General Electric.

I could be wrong, but I don't believe there was a "high performance" 360 available in 1973, since the 340 was still the high performance small block offering- try looking for '74 360 4 bbl. that took the place as the 340's successor.

I really hope you meant 2.02 intake valves in your heads... :lol: Personally, I would have the heads' manifold surfaces cut instead of cutting the manifold. That way you can run any unmodified manifold you want without having to repeatedly have manifolds remachined.

While it's not a direct search, you could try going to the Forums page; scroll to the bottom of the list and you'll find the Regional Boards- select your local one and see who's posted there.

A hard time getting it to work, in what way? What trans shift lever did you use on the 727? The linkage levers are all made to work with each other to achieve the desired range of motion, so if you throw in something from a different setup you can't expect it to work as designed. Use the 904...

I've got an '88 Dak with a mild Magnum 5.9 and an AX-15; pounding on it for 3 years now and no issues.

I think you'd be happier with the gear spacings on the AX-15. The NV 3500 is going to have the gear splits only a truck could love.

Just food for thought, but make DARN sure that there's no interference between the downleg of the manifold (esp. driver's side) and the head. I have a Magnum slated for install in a '68 Dart, and when I mounted up the early 340 manifolds, the driver's manifold outlet was hitting the bottom part...

All right, first off you need to post some pics of your rockers. Stock '68 340s did not have adjustable rockers, so we need to know what you've actually got. At this point I'm going to guess stock '64-'67 273 mechanical rockers. You didn't say what the replacement cam is- hydraulic or solid...

Same pedals- 9", 10", disc, power/manual. As long as you stick with factory designed parts there is no issue concerning pedal ratio.

True, but very hard to find. But yes, as I stated, "only the slant six had the mechanical pivot rod linkage". No V8s.

Assuming a 5.9 as opposed to a 5.2, a couple of things come to mind. -Don't limit yourself to the '97 and up Magnums. The later ones came with a one-piece damper/pulley, which you won't be able to use with your LA front drives. Stick with the earlier (~'98 and earlier?) units that have a...

Just get the '64-'66 V8 A body cable linkage, bolts right in. Only the slant 6 used the mechanical pivot rod linkage. The later linkage can be made to work, too- but it's not a bolt in.

Well, not quite "early"- that's a '67-'72 mount, OP wants the '66 and earlier number referenced above. The later mount is also frequently incorrectly listed as an early mount in many parts listings. In Rock Auto's listings for example, they have the later number listed for '64-'66 Darts, but...

Which master did you use, exactly? Your front brakes should be fed from the rear reservoir (red arrow, large reservoir). Your rear brakes (with proportioning valve) should be fed from the front reservoir (green arrow). Running them reversed can cause two things: -The master can run out of fluid...

Confusing, yes; but he did name it correctly. DUI's slant six distributor is called a "Tri Power" by the manufacturer and is just a model name, maybe a reference to its three-wire hookup or something, but not a reference to carburetion. Dodge Slant 6 Tri-Power Distributor – Performance...

Uh, no... That thread is full of misinformation that I won't even get into here- suffice it to say as far as the GIII Hemi and the Viper V10 are concerned, there is no interchange of bellhousings or flywheels. I've had them both (bells and f.wheels) and went down that rabbit hole years ago with...

This...

Let's see a pic of the carburetor throttle/kickdown linkage.

The gauge doesn't connect to sender and ground- the sender is a variable ground. The gauge gets a 12v feed and grounds through the sender (which varies depending on oil pressure, which gives you your gauge reading). So, 12v from the panel cluster (fuel and temp are regulated by the IVR to ~5v...

Yes, the same. Anchor 2338 (other brands will generally have a form of the 2338 number in them, ie Marmon A2338, Pioneer 602338). Or: https://earlycuda.org/techdocs/JimBowenTheHolyGrailofMotorMounts.pdf

No, what I said was I should have been clearer and said "unlike any FACTORY bracket". Since you're mixing and matching factory and aftermarket pieces, the routing could be anything. I couldn't find where Borgeson's site even specified what years (spacing) that bracket is designed for, or what...

Looks to me like you've got '69 and earlier brackets and pulleys on a '70 and later front cover & water pump. The two generations of water pumps have different depths and use their own different pulleys and brackets which is causing your mismatch. That power steering bracket is unlike anything...

Disconnect the driveshaft and see if you can spin it in neutral using the driveshaft/yoke. If you can, then try to spin the rear end, still with the driveshaft disconnected. 50/50 if the issue is the trans. (or linkage), or the rear end.

Yes, as I said, if you want to run an automatic or a later model manual trans., the original manual bellhousing crossmember will have to come out. It interferes with linkages and exhaust and a few other things, and serves no practical purpose outside of the original application. You will need...

There's no way I would attempt this if you don't have access to the car. There's going to be variations even between two identically-equipped cars, and between different tastes as far as how closely-fitting you want the hole to be. Someone else may have different linkages, fuel line setups...

The engine won't fit either, unless you swap the oil pan/pump pickup and dipstick to passenger car units. I'm assuming it's a 2wd transmission?