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This is 67 glass

I use alcohol free from Maverick gas stations. The engine was rebuilt in the 80s and may or may not have replacement valve seats. I'm not too worried about the lack of lead in the fuel.

It MIGHT be marked on the outside near the valve stem. Seems like 68 and newer it's on the outside. 67 and older it's inside the wheel covered by the tire

Water temp Oil pressure Voltage If you want to really go big... Oil temp Trans fluid temp Ammeter

14x4.5 or 14x5.5?

When you press the horn button does it start and keep running? Or does it start and when you release the horn button it dies? What if anything did you do to the wiring to install the steering wheel? Did you remove the steering column in the I stall process?

The car was my dad's daily driver, 300,000 in 25 years.

My 7/14 lasted 323,000 miles behind a 273 2bbl and 904. It would still be in use today but it was run dry (leak or not refilled at last lube change) for up to 20,000 miles.

IMHO 20 amp might not be enough. Most of the cirs have a 20 amp fuse on their own. You need to check the current draw on the red or black wire with every thing on, headlights radio doors open brake lights pressed etc, etc, etc. Then you will see how close to the limit you are running those...

It is my understanding that the drag that a dry bolt thread provides is calculated I to the torque spec. The luse allows the bolt to spin easier and now the same amount of torque is over tightening the bolt Somewhere I recall seeing lubed spec at 50 (just a number) and dry is 75 ( just a number)

Same design but not the same block

That's the way many Ford's do it back in the day. Also allowed you to get the rear fully submerged without getting water in it.

[FOR SALE] - Complete 7 1/4 rear end

The splash shield, removed from in the tire well area. Several small head fender washer bolts, and a few screws. Many times they are hidden by undercoat and buildup of dirt and mud. With that off you can even access the hood hinges.

It's a 57 to 64 742

Bolt torque is based on bolt size, type of bolt thread pitch, metallurgy of the bolt and block, and the amount of allowable stretch. If you over torque the bolts they are more likely to break. To me the engineers who designed the parts would be a better source of info. 10 more lbft may be...

67 273 2bbl and 273 4bbl use the same engine parts, except pistons and cam. Torque specks would be the same.

RRR now don't hold back, tell us how you really feel :poke: :rofl:

I think your best bet is to go to a well stocked auto parts store and brows their hoses. I don't care for the corrugated hoses

Shoot a photo of your upper radiator hose.

I don't remember where I saw it but someone made an adapter of some type that went over the cable and and end and they were able to pump some type of lube into the sheathing

I went from 2.93 to 3.23 there was a slight improvement in 1/4 mile. But regular driving I do not notice any difference. Rear end swap is pretty straight forward and easy so go for the 2.76 and if you end up not liking it there are always 7.25s that come up for free or 100.00 bucks. Or save...

Looks like 11" uses equal sized return springs. 10 " uses different size. 10"

Since the lower ball joint and spindles are different drum to disk it stand to reason they would be different. I wonder if the wider track of the disks adds to this???

It should. Paint? Got so hot it melted the led "ball" a bit? Try a knife or small screwdriver to separate the "ball" from the spring Unless the spring is really compressed it's really not too stiff to move by hand.

I usually hook it on before putting the shoes on. BUT... With a bit of slack in the line you should be able to pull the spring back enough to slide the cable into the slot. If you can not get enough slack I I would be looking at the cable to be sure it can move freely in the sheathing...

Regardless of where you get your parts, MOST are manufactured by a few manufacturers so shop by customer service and shipping costs, I had to laugh when I bought Corbin clamps from Dales Cuda Shop, then bought a set from Classic Ind. They just stuck their label over the Dales Cuda Shop label!

I remember smelling gear oil for a week after the swap and then again after the 1st oil change! It's not a bad smell, just not a present one! I would rather smell a feed lot over the gear oil.

The factory used color coding! :rolleyes: There are numbered tapes that you wrap around the wires And labels you print on a laser printer then wrap around the wire LOTS of options on amazon