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Installed each rotor and then caliper with new pads and bleeder at the top. I’m surprised that the caliper holddown packet had 12 mm bolts where the bolt holes on the caliper adapters was 5/16th NC. I will get to Lowes in a day or two for some Stainless Steel bolts and washers of the correct...

You’re correct! The adjustable strut rods were finished in gold. I painted them black as well as the tie rod sleeves

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I’m getting ready to install the rotors and front brakes - NOS Calipers and hold down hardware I bought from @slantsixdan, new F Body brake hoses (the calipers will be mounted to the rear so the longer F Body hoses are required), and new Wagner semi metallic brake shoes through Amazon I found...

Not true; 65/66 slants with factory AC (not knee knocker) also used the same cable set up as the V8 but with a different cable (longer I believe)

PM forthcoming

All it might need is the latch adjusted in or out or up/down just a bit.

OK it measures just slightly less than 2 inches.. so it’s the smaller one

What is the diameter of either one and I will meadure it

As best as I can count, the flywheel appears to be 121/122 teeth. I had it surfaced for a slant 4 speed project which never panned out

I would have to count the teeth but think This one might be a 122 tooth flywheel. I am pretty sure it’s for a slant. We are getting ready to go out so I’ll see if I can count the teeth when we get back. If not later, then tomorrow for sure

I have a pair of windshield washer squirters correct for a 65 A Body. They might be correct for 63/64 or 66 A Bodies. $40 for the pair shipped to any US Zip Code; elsewhere at cost

Sold! Thanks John

@65dartcharger

I’m guessing you meant it has a 7.25 rear with SBP axles. Don’t overlook an A Body 8.25 as they are pretty stout themselves

1962to1965mopar/ornocar.com has a page that has help in decoding 65’s

I found a couple well used (dented) dust covers. I’d like to find some new ones but at $13 or more for new ones each, might have to let the Magnum 500s hide the covers

And the sleeves are black Decided to pack the inner wheel bearings fir each rotor and set them in place Then tap the seal in place

So the score is 2 to Zip to paint them

Now it’s time to clean and paint the conterlink Add the NOS idler arm to the K Frame and add the NOS pitman arm to the steering box The tie the two together with the centerlink Next will be add the solid tie rod sleeves and NOS 11/16ths toe rods. Leave them in their natural finish...

They look like the large 73-76 A Body (and as used in the 62-72 B Body ball jounts)

Front bracket in the mail

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If the OP still has his 65 seats, the 66-up console may not fit between the wide 65-earlier buckets. In 66 to go with the new console, the A body got much narrower seats

The factory floor shifter was designed to use both cables - one for Park one for everything else and won’t function with a 66-newer transmission. Imperial Services (no longer in business) used to offer a conversion to use the later transmission with the stock floor shifter.

On my 65 the resistor was actually on top of the heater box

I will take a look as I pulled several vents apart. I too was looking for nice driver quality stuff for my 2 door sedan doors on my wagon

I had to strap the K Frame and everything so far installed to the roll around (orange strap). It kept wanting to tip over. I used the red strap to hold the spindles from flopping over till they were secured to the upper ball joint