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It appears that I couldn't build the 360 (Core) that I already have for the same cost to get it to the 383 horsepower level. Not to mention, I'd have to build a SB 727 to handle the 360. Looks like I'm going back to the 383/727 plan.

I bought a built 383 that I have heard/seen run. Engine had no smoke at cold startup, 80 lbs. (observed) of oil pressure and had a lot of cam lope at idle. The owner that built the engine doesn't have much documentation, but say's professionally ported HP iron heads, KB pistons (~10-1 Comp)...

I'm not sure how cheap or available a used T-5 is anymore, because most led a hard life. I've owned close to a dozen Fox Body Mustangs, most with a T-5. If it's in good shape when you install it, you'll probably never have a problem. The best thing you can do them is install a short throw...

Rear rims are 15 x 8 large bolt pattern, front are 15 x 3 1/2 or four, also large bolt pattern.

Sale pending for all three, but I'll put you next in line.

I cleaned out my inbox, sorry. I do PayPal.

I'll throw in Hedman fenderwell headers, electric WP drive (see my ads in the and Mechanical Parts for sale) and these mounts (1/4" steel) to install a big block for the Duster asking price. DS pic is upside down PS is correct orientation

I believe this is a Moroso Electric Water Pump Drive, but I cannot find a part number. Came off of my 383, so this should fit RB, as well. Worked when removed. $45, buyer pays shipping. Located in 78155 zip code.

Selling Autometer 2 5/8" mechanical oil pressure w/copper hardline ($45), water temperature ($65) gauges and an AutoGauge 5" Tach with shift light ($125). Numbers on gauges have some fading (see pics) from sun exposure, but all gauges were verified to work properly when removed. Located in 78155...

Set of used Headman headers for an A-Body big block application. Tubes and flanges are solid, will need new slip-on/bolt-on collectors ($50-100 @ Summit), as the current bolt-on ones are toast. Unpainted version (these appear to have been originally coated) goes for $850 @ Summit. I've pictured...

The VIN tag was gone when I purchased the car, same as when the seller purchased 20 years ago. I haven’t been able to find a VIN on the car.

Car is located in central Texas, 78155.

I bought this old race car for the drivetrain and contemplated putting in the parts car section, but it could still be a great cheap race car for someone. 1970 (I think) Duster, 8-point roll cage, frame connectors, line-lock, Rear Spring relocation kit, B&M shifter, 3/8" fuel hardline, Weld...

PM sent

Looks just like a '75 Dodge Dart Sport I sold ~2008, except I didn't have a "Dodge" sticker on the quarter panels and had different tires/rims. The car went to the northeast and was that same powder blue with the half vinyl top, can't be a common paint code.

This was my first thought.

Welcome! What brand/size are those rear tires?

I'm trying to figure out the best way to feed a healthy 383 I'm getting ready to install into my '75 Duster. I currently have a 5/16" fuel line, which is just not going to cut it, especially since I plan on adding a 75-100 shot of nitrous at some point in the future. I was thinking about...

Thanks Jim, I don't know why I didn't think about re-pop being available. I found this at Year One: https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/rq89 Looks like everything I'll need!

Still looking for the alternator bracket, spacers and bolts

Thanks, they have it. $25 a pop, but it sounds like quality paint (rated up to 700 degrees) and should only take one can for the engine.

I'm trying to find the mid-70's Chrysler Blue engine paint in a rattle can. I can't seem to find VHT, which I used in the past, in the proper darker blue that's correct for my '75 Duster. Any recommendations for a high heat period correct engine paint for my Duster? Thanks!

Still looking for the alternator bracket, spacers and bolts

Bought the above pulleys, but still need the alternator bracket, spacers and bolts.

Trying to get a complete matched set, so I know everything plays well together. Thanks

Trying to find a matched alternator bracket (including bolts and spacers), water pump pulley and crankshaft pulley for a single pulley alternator setup. My application doesn't have P/S or A/C. Thanks,

I did this on my Dart Sport ~20 years ago, so my memory is fuzzy on everything I removed. I do remember drilling a hole in the bumper shocks and securing them closed with some self-tapping screws. I don't remember seeing anything exposed that made it obvious that I modded the bumper.

I did this on a '75 Dart Sport and it moved back enough (fully collapsing the bumper shocks) to look like it was factory. Sorry, I don't have any pics of the car and it's long gone. I currently have a '75 Duster and will probably do this in the future, but my filler pieces are like new, so it's...

This will be my plan, as I've seen multiple people on the A-Body Big Block forum say the same thing. I've got manual steering on my duster and the 383 already had a mini starter installed. I use this forum for knowledge and experience from the people that have already been there done that, so I...

I’ve read numerous post while searching this site that said B-Body headers would work in a big block A-Body with clearancing.