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The multiple horizontal bars grill was only on the 1958 Trucks. The 1960 grill had the style shown in your "Grade A Moneysavers" ad picture. Only one single lower horizontal bar.

Thanks for the tips, I had just had the front suspension apart, replaced all the ball joints and upper control arm bushings. The lower arm swung all the way down to the shock's full extension at the time. I reassembled it but didn't tighten the upper a-arm bolts until the car was back on wheels.

I am still looking

I have a '74 Dart Sport. (70-71 Duster clone now.) I tore the whole thing apart as soon as I bought it. I replaced the gas tank and sender when I was putting it back together. The inside of the filler neck was crusty, so I wanted to clean it out. There was a long, tongue-like baffle inside...

Nope, those bushings are a piece of s**t. I'm pretty well known on this site for rebuilding these Mopar lower control arms. I use Proforged bushings in my rebuilding. Just something to throw out to you, as a recommendation, parts wise. Jim V. hemi71x

I have a few pm me

14×6 Fentons small bolt plus uni-lug...first set I've ever seen....they were on my 71 duster..no center caps and they require these funky offset oval washers....which are still avail.....I have most of them..

Is it soaking up gas? Also check for trash on the needle halve

u can just pull the shaft out.

Bonus, pin slides right in. Wonder how that would drive

it does pivot to a degree, but it's more like it flexes. there's not a whole bunch of range when tight. anyway, i'd loosen that up and retry. if it's loose, and everything is still stiff, then it's likely the pin is rusted into the K, the up.per control arm is rusted solid in place (less...

392/318 in front of it I was told though my tires would probably break loose before ujoint. They are new I did inspect them. 26” tires

Dunno…. Brian is somewhere in line

Who's purple dart is that behind you? WTF is Brian ?

Ok thanks Im putting a 392 behind it probably 475 max hp with 3.91 gears. It was suggested I get a driveshaft loop as well. Thats my only thought with the ujoints

if your shaft is good condition, i'd just have that worked to fit; it would be the most economical path. but if you wind up needing a combo joint and don't want to run that, then i'd source a new one or just have one built. not that there's anything wrong with running a combo. shorter answer...

If you can find an a-body 8.75 complete assembly with leaf springs, it's a much more simple swap.

Would if be worth the time to find a drive shaft or replace if I need bigger ujoints I think I can handle the brake lines.

still available

I have been using cloyes double rollers for years in all my mopars including daily drivers JOe

3/8'' is pretty small... ok thank you

This is a OEM Mopar 4 Groove Crankshaft Pulley. It came off of a 1968 440ci engine with A/C & P/S, but I believe it will work on several different years and engines. It is in good condition. $35.00. Local pickup, or buyer pays shipping. (The six OEM attaching bolts are not pictured, but are...

No, I didn't loosen that. I figured it pivots, but to be honest I didn't look into the assembly diagram beforehand. It's not close to hitting the bump stops, a good three fingers fir between. From the responses I now know that it can't have been clocked incorrectly. Thanks!

After 52 years in the collision industries you learn a few things lol

I sure hope not. I can’t imagine this getting any current base safety office approval.

Brilliance..god bless the tape measure..

You can go back to the transmission crossmember bolts, should be the same on both sides

^^ KS got it. don't forget some properly sized washers

Phenolic

Brass,or phenolic float?