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Loose is fast.

I bet most folks will argue that the 920 heads are better, because they are closed chamber heads. I think they'd be great from what I read! Here's the deal, though: I just picked up these 675 heads from a FABO member last Sunday (in exchange for a bottle of Jack Daniels). They were rebuilt...

If the engine bearing clearances were set to factory spec 160 will exacerbate a tight new engine and temp. I have heard of overheating due to ring gap being too tight. If it overheats without a thermostat and with a thermostat it's not the thermostat.

I'm sure it's the fact that you're running a Chevy engine with Ford wiring in a Mopar vehicle. It's probably got a little something to do with it being mixe years from 1930 all the way to 1980. If you don't get the hint, maybe just maybe you could tell us what the FRIG kinda car you have and...

Ouch. Would pull the plugs and bore scope. The pressure numbers could be all over the board due to the valves not fully seating from carbon buildup. Would for sure pull the valve covers, give the valves a slight tap with the dead blow as your working through the cam timing to close the...

That is how you adjust both axles from one side... adjustment from the side with the adjuster pushes against the button, which pushes against the end of the opposite axle.

Good point, I'm pretty sure I installed one in the 273 to lower temp now that u mention it.

180 stat is too high. I run a 160 which my 340 LOVES running in the 160-170 range…

Energy Suspension makes a bracket/insulator set. Uses the three factory bolt holes and adds a fourth (easy to do). You need the bar diameter to get the right insulator.

Wondering about manifolds for my '69 dart 360 magnum. Manual steering, column shift for now but may convert to floor shift. I am wondering whether it will be possible to run a magnum manifold on the driver's side or whether I should track down a 340 manifold. Of course the other option is to...

The best vapour lock additive is to get rid of the mech fuel pump & use a Carter elec pump mounted near the tank.

DMT sells Stainless ones!

Agree with RRR. More timing on an unloaded engine. Engine is NOT driving the car, just itself. Other thoughts: - there will always be some air trapped in the cooling system of new engines. You have to run the engine, let the engine cool, to push the air out. This may take 2-3 cycles. The engine...

good friend's Charger with a 400 stroked to 498''

Tons of ways to make this work. Mopar, Points (nothing wrong with them) Petronixs (need a points dist) Mopar elect, older the better the new orange boxes are junk and the kits are made overseas "authorised" Mopar. Biggest thing is having a proper curve for your motor. Just say you get a RA...

I always drill a small hole in the thermostat to help cooling flow

And smoke kill mosquitoes!

"loud pipes save lives"

No gussets at the upper ball joint?

Did you do the gasket without the adapter plates? Or in addition to them?

Steve - how hot did it get??? it's possible that you have air trapped in the block that just isn't making its way out. can you see the water circulating in the radiator? While it's cold you might crack the two block drains for a bit and then pour the coolant back in the radiator.

Lol, i agree Mike. He's one of a few on ignore, it's a beauty feature, but once in a while I'll "unignore" for entertainment value. :lol: Shows his true colors(not 1st time) right there.

Since you have 4 wheel drive I would just put another 46RH in it. Spend your $500 and rebuild it some some quality clutches. It should live fine and you won't have to reinvent the wheel trying to get something else to fit. Tom

Who built the 46RH? They can handle a lot more that 300 HP when built correctly... Even bone stock they would handle 300 HP for a heck of a lot longer than 15 miles.... Find a better builder & keep the 46 RH....

That guy really is on the wrong site...