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It may just be an optical illusion though because the drum LBJ is thinner. Only one way to find out.

Side by side:

At the very least, be sure to take it apart to see what's going on before you buy anything. There are several versions of these couplers and they're all slightly different. You may be able to use the shoes in that kit, but you won't be able to use the seal, seal retainer, or spring. Hopefully...

Keep in mind you won't be able to use most of the parts in the kit Rick posted. Your coupler is a completely different shape. I went through the same thing on the couple on my '66 Dart.

Something's up with that passenger side spring would be my guess. The angle of the coils seems very different

Are the parts numbers on the springs the same? Did they have the same length sitting on your bench prior to installation? Something's not right.

Yeah, that's something I've never seen. Hey, at least the axle tubes aren't kinked.

Does anyone have a photo they'd be willing to share of a housing they've kinked from using round u-bolts (torqued to factory spec)? I used them before and have never kinked an 8-3/4 housing. Maybe I've just gotten lucky. I've got the same Calvert u-bolts holding Dana 60 in my '66 Dart. Granted...

Hit it with an impact until it gets to the point of not spinning the shaft, then torque it to spec.

72 would have had the same centerlink regardless of engine. Only the '66 and earlier had different bars for slant six vs. small block.

Here's a nifty trick someone posted on this site a while back to separate upper balljoints.

Is the Borgeson unit a different design all together? How does it eliminate the dead spot in the middle? Or is it just because the internals are brand new? Do they make a manual box as tight as the power steer unit?

Glad to hear it's not just me.

What were the measurable stiffness improvements from your modifications?

You're car is slightly different than my '68. The rails on my '68 are much more vertical than yours, especially as it approaches the outrigger/floor support. I also cut the mounts where the lines are below. This eliminated the slight taper issue. Like I said, it's a lot more vertical on mine...

...to allow for the bolt head. All-in-all, it ended up being plenty for what I was doing. The 275/60s don't rub at all. Lots of kits and lots of ways to skin a cat with this stuff. In the end, it just depends on how much cutting, welding, and grinding you want to do. *edited for additional...

The delrin bushings don't require grease?

There are different coupler bodies depending on the year. Is yours one of the early versions that's more squared off? If so, the springs in the kits won't work with it.

Some attorney made them throw that in there.

Calvert calls for 65-70 ftlbs for standard 1/2" u-bolts and 100 ftlbs for 9/16" truck u-bolts.

That's pretty badass. Thanks for the update!

What an awesome looking Demon. How do the calvert split mono leafs act on the street?

Are the super stock springs still available? Who's making them these days?

Are the springs new? If so, Calvert may just swap you rear segments. You may want to try giving them a call. They're a pretty stand up company.

Put the 225/60's on the front, get a taller rear tire and standard height rear spring segments. Once they settle, it'll look great.

None of these cars were perfect from the factory. I bet what you've done is more than adequate. Nice work!

There are lots of online conversion calculators available for this.

That seems like a pretty short spring. What are the extended and compressed lengths of shocks?

They're 5/16" pins I believe. The one on the bench off my '66 is 1.115" long, so a 1" or 1-1/8" long pin should work fine.

I guess some folks would say loosen the LCA pivot when adjusting the torsion bar, then tighten it back up when you have them where you want them because you want the LCA bushing to be at it's 'neutral' position at ride height. I question whether loosening up the LCA pivot nut would even allow...