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Maybe tight bearings?

I didn't read 36 posts. Mike Jones, aka Cam King & renowned cam grinder said a while back that the FT lifters are made off shore, only one company making them in the US. This week on Speed talk he said he has Chebby lifters.....for $320. So if you are getting lifters for much less.....they are...

So, no ign box, just a bal res? That would be correct for 1967....which is: ign coil, points & condenser. I would start by replacing the points & cond.

There was a guy on forums by the name of Dave Ray. Haven't heard from him for a while. [ Which is good because a lot of what he posted was BS ] Claims he worked on the development of GMs HEI. He also claimed he had 50 gal drums [ plural ] full of dead Pert modules....

I learned my Optima 'lesson' a few years ago. New Optima red, about 18m old. Going down a hill, engine died, no warning. Pulled over, batt was down to about 7v. This was NOT a charging problem. After sitting for a few hrs, bat voltage came back up to 12v. Bat was under warranty, but Optima would...

Thanks, mate!

If the electrical system is stock, the total draw is probably a few amps [ single figures ] less than the alt rating.

Those modules are pretty cheap. I would replace it. Use heat transfer paste between it & the mounting. NOT dielectric grease!

If you want to reduce clutch free play..... Get two friction plates. Scrape/remove the friction material from one side of EACH plate. Piggy back them in the clutch pack.

My wife talked me into getting a cat [ we got her as a kitten ]. Had always been a dog person. Sadly, both have passed way, but the cat was a great comfort me to me after my wife passed way. Now a cat lover.

Giving an engine 32* at idle is NOT a band aid if that is what the engine wants for best idle & vacuum. A band aid would be giving it less than optimum timing at idle...

Lifters: find some factory lifters & have them re-faced [ you can use S/B lifters if easier to find ]......unless you want to go through this again....

...cu in. What they have in common is shorter rod/stroke ratios. Here are some actual numbers. Max tq is applied to the crank when the rod is at 90* to the crank throw. On a short rod engine, this occurs higher in the bore, where the expanding gas has more force. With a 3.00" stroke & 4.5" rod...

Bit of flawed logic there from Darin. If two engines have the same capacity [ cu in ], but one is short stroke/big bore, other is small bore/big stroke, the contact area of the rings against the bore is the same for each engine. The big bore does not have an advantage because of the bore size.

I cured vapour lock on my 440 by removing the factory fuel pump & fitting a Carter #4594 elec pump. VP lock is usually worse, or causes more problems, at idle & low cruise rpm. That is because the engine is using less fuel. The fuel stays in the pumped & lines longer....getting cooked by the heat.

Yes, this ^^^^^^^^^^^^

Might be one for the Guinness Book of Records....

Quite agree! But it is still an elec pump pushing the same fuel to the engine....

An electric pump does fix v/lock. Modern cars use elec pumps.....& the same fuel.....& they don't get v/lock. Pump needs to be mounted near the tank.

You have a high rpm intake & wondering where the low end went? Use an RPM intake. 9.5 CR is not helping either. You need a HEAP more initial timing, 30* plus.

Looking through old magazines....SS & DI Dec 79. Article on long & short rods. Apparently at that time there was a junior fuel Chevy class. Ran fastest with a 1.9 r/s ratio, but et'd best with a 1.75 ratio. Junior fuellers were limited to 310 ci & had NO transmissions. With a 1.9 ratio, they...

The best vapour lock additive is to get rid of the mech fuel pump & use a Carter elec pump mounted near the tank.

Agree with RRR. More timing on an unloaded engine. Engine is NOT driving the car, just itself. Other thoughts: - there will always be some air trapped in the cooling system of new engines. You have to run the engine, let the engine cool, to push the air out. This may take 2-3 cycles. The engine...

As I said.....keep the p/up wires separate from the coil neg wire & HT leads. If you look at the MSD 6 box [ & others ], the p/up wires exit the box on their own...& at the other end of the box from where the coil wires exit. They did that for a reason..... Similarly, on modules such as HEI &...

George gets it....

Big carb guys: Did you read what the OP said: Chall, 3.23 gears, street driving. There is a guy floating around on the net with a 289 Ford that has a lawn mower carb on it, gets up to 75 mph. Wonder how many cfm THAT carb is, 15, 20?

Using a coil with high pri resistance results in less spark energy, all else being equal. If the module will work with a coil that has 0.6 ohm pri resistance, I would find an E core that has ~0.6 ohm pri. They are more efficient than canister coils. There is a reason GM was able to run 0.080"...

It is a good idea to twist the p/up wires, but not mandatory. Check for p/up air gap, should be 0.008". Make sure there is an air gap for each reluctor tip. Contact between p/up & rel tip results in no spark on that cyl. Keep the p/up wires away from: coil - wire, tach wire, high tension leads...

Well Turk, if you are not reading what I say, & then posting bull ****....that makes you a bullshitter....

I stopped adding additives a long time ago..... I figured the oil companies know how to....make oil.....& if an additive was needed....they would add it.