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I know a few things from tons of research during my build. The problem is that my memory is real dumb! I'm trying to do better at keeping good records of things for future reference.

I appreciate the input, guys. I decided to get a good night's sleep and look at it again this morning as well as provide some more info. I set the M1 back on it to compare and that was also a challenge to get the bolts started again on both sides. Turns out it was user error. (surprise...

Not really but I was thinking as long as I have it available to use... until I ran into the fitment issue. I'll probably end up just keeping the M1 setup because it fits.

oops, yes, 2.02. My bad! Corrected. I'd rather just keep the current M1 setup that to pull and shave the heads at this point.

Hi Guys, So I'm doing a bunch of maintenance stuff on my car and have the drivetrain with front suspension out right now. My car came with an M1 intake on it and that's what I've been running for a few years (street driven) just because it was easiest affordable option at the time of my build...

That is so awesome! Thank you for all the details and following up. I have what appears to be a rear main leak on my semi-fresh 340 stroker build, where we also used the ARP bolts/studs, so i will definitely be looking more closely at that area and the oil pump gasket. Thank you again and best...

I think I could use a good 6 pack after reading these last few responses. I got what RRR was trying to say right away. LOL :wtf:

I would try running a fuel pressure regulator and set it to 5.5 or 6 psi, max. You might be surprised. 1 or 2 psi can make all the difference on some carbs.

any updates on this???

I also want to add, that with my fuel pressure situation, I had the same poor (loading up) results with 2 new Holleys and a good Edelbrock carb, until I replaced the expensive pump with a stock cheapie. I could have achieved the same end results with a fuel pressure regulator, and still plan to...

One more thing.... Fuel pressure. What fuel pump are you running and have you verified the pressure is no higher than 6.5-7psi at most??? I had an expensive Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump guaranteed to put out only 6.5 but it was running 8+ psi. Went back to a stock mechanical $18 pump and...

I'd swap out with a known-to-be-good carb for a comparison, if you haven't tried that yet

I had a mis-aligned/cocked dist cap on my MSD distributor that acted similar.

Great. How did you do the break-in?

That's so awesome that you seem to have straightened out your engine problems! If you go with sub frame connectors, which you SHOULD, I would use the good weld-in ones like these from US Cartool: Subframe Connectors They also sell complete body stiffening kits like these, if you wanna get...

That is just awesome! Way to go, man.

Gotta give ya the gold sticker award for sticking to it, holy crap! I've went through a few things with my build but so far, nothing that bad.... so far. I've had it to the dyno twice now after some changes and so far, all seems to be good to go. I'll know more once I get it on the road this Spring.

Man, that really sucks. Sorry to hear your bad news. Wishing you the best with the rebuild and following along.

ATI seems like a good brand but...There are so many different ATI models. How do ya choose which one? I'm also looking for one for my 340 stroker. Thanks

Not sure that this really helps you or not, but here's a couple of pics from when I pulled my engine that show just how much room you have to work with for plug wires with Dougs headers on a 340.

UPDATE: I will probably start a fresh thread for this rocker geometry correction but wanted to follow up here first. I contacted Mike @B3RE Racing Engines and he hooked me up with a custom geometry correction kit. What a great guy to deal with! I'll be putting my engine on the dyno again next...

Thanks, Mike! I read your Tech Series articles on Rocker Arm Geometry... really great info and well-explained! I sent you an email and will be giving you a call shortly! -Doug

@B3RE , Thanks again for the insight. I think you may be correct but I'd like to chat briefly if that's OK...

3200-3400 is what they suggested

That makes sense, thanks. I will look into that.

Well, low and behold, I was reorganizing all the 'stuff' in my car's trunk and found the actual cam card. LOL... Thanks again for the previous input and thoughts. I have a new converter on order from PTC Here's the cam card:

It's easy to see from my dyno sheet that my build would peter out in a 1/4 mile run with the heads I have, so that is something to keep in mind if you plan to race it at all vs strictly street driven. It might do pretty decent at an 1/8 mile track and I will probably do that, for fun. I will...

I believe the chambers were 57cc. 2.02, Manley valves (intake), Racetec Dished Pistons, Molnar Crank & Rods, Erson Hydraulic Roller Cam (547 [email protected]) , Comp Solid Lifters and Comp Roller Rockers 1.5 ratio... I don't think I have any good photos of the heads after they were finished.

Here's a dyno sheet from my 340/416 stroker with mildly-ported J heads and 10:1 compression, .547 lift cam. Don't have it in the car yet but I'm guessing it should be a pretty fun street car with 3.73 gears.

Well you are correct, that for now at least, the engine had mildly ported J heads/2.02 valves. So yes, it is very much head-limited. I appreciate the input from everyone.