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As far as the rod falling out, the OEM masters have a socket in the piston with a rubber grommet that the rod snaps into. It can be almost impossible to remove the rod once it's in there. The piston is retained by either a small bolted-on tab or a bolted-on boot. Any MC should have some kind of...

Things to check: Back off the adjusters? Are you sure you have the right shoes? There is a lot of confusion about the 10" rear brakes on A-bodies. They take 10x1-3/4" shoes, NOT 2" shoes. Parts stores are often confused about this. Did you assemble everything correctly (correct spring on top...

67 Barracuda. 215/70-14 on 14x5.5 rally wheels. Considering that this size won't fit in the spare well (I have a 185/70-14 in there), and that I have an SG rear axle that can't handle mismatched sizes, it's critical that I have the ability to swap tires front and rear in an emergency. I'm not...

The fact that pulling on the harness works makes one suspect a loose connection... unfortunately, on the dash, it probably means a loose pin on the circuit board. I suppose it could be one of the wires in the big multi connector isn't fully seated — the female sockets aren't attached to the...

That's right. The aftermarket senders are not A-body specific. They are not properly calibrated for the fact that the upper half of the tank has the spare tire well cutout. You can possibly tweak them so that E and F are more or less correct, but every reading in between will be wrong.

IIRC the carpet is slit to fit around the pedal bracket and lay flat behind it.

I don't think there would be any "good" way to run those mismatched heads. Before I knew what I was doing, I inadvertently picked up a pair of 315 heads and installed them on my 67 273 Commando. The manifold did not seal — in 500 miles it had totally gunked the valves and blew oil smoke...

There is no way a LeMans front clip would fit on a Swinger. It would be at least a foot too wide. And a four door hardtop? Where did that come from? Photoshop...

I have used Krylon Dull Aluminum.

Typically, the upper door frames would be the dash frame color — black on a black interior car, navy blue on a dark blue interior car. "White" interior cars were actually always two-tone — white & black, white & red, white & blue (there were no white dash frames, steering wheels or dash pads)...

I happened to have a model railroad transformer, that had a rheostat that could go from 0 to 24 volts. So I set it to 12V for testing. I quickly turned it down and back up a little to see if the gauges responded. I didn't go to the trouble of trying to calibrate them, just wanted to see if they...

I suppose you might have some options in Illinois. Here in California it's 87, 89 or 91 unleaded, all with ethanol. If you have hardened valve seats installed, lead is not needed. Lead additives are questionable, anyway, because they tend to just sink to the bottom of the tank. I use 91 because...

I needed a new driveshaft when I did this swap on a 67 Barracuda, but my numbers won't help you (because Dart is 3" longer). I was fortunate in that my buddy pulled the correct driveshaft out of a 6ft high pile of driveshafts at a wrecking yard — first try. You probably won't be that lucky.

For the record, my reference tells me that dual point distributors were used in the following A-bodies: 1967 and earlier 273 4bbl 1968 340 1969 340 MANUAL only 1969 383 1969 440 1970 340 MANUAL only (from here down also includes E-body) 1970 440 & Hemi 1971 340 4bbl & 3x2bbl MANUAL only (also...

I had Jeff Schlemmer of Advance Distributor rebuild a distributor for me, and asked him, "Would you run a Pertronix, or points?". He said points, so that's what I'm going with. I admit it's a PITA to set the duals when they are way in the back under the hood where you can barely reach them or...

I recognized it because I have 4 of them. Should be basically the same as a 340, but the mech. advance springs and the shims in the vac advance are probably different.

Per the number, it is actually a 1967 273 Commando distributor.

My guess is it’s probably almost 80% due to the 3.73 rear. I just did a round trip to LA from San Jose in my warmed over 273 Commando with a 3.23. Took it easy on the way down on 101, kept up with traffic on the 5 (meaning 80) on the way back, averaged 12.5mpg. Give me a 3.73 and 6mpg seems...

When Alan sets out to do something, it happens rapidly. I'm all for this project, even though I didn't really have problems with the slant (other than dropping in a rebuilt 68 unit because of massive oil consumption). Since it no longer has the original engine, and I carried out other mods like...

Not all of the holes in the plug are filled with wires. Only the ones that align with pins on the board. It can be confusing because the pinout for the board is a mirror image of the pinout when you are looking at the face of the plug. It may be more useful to think of it looking at the back of...

I really think you will want to remove all the interior trim, or you won't be able to see where it is leaking.

Yes, Argent Silver is what the factory called it. You should be able to buy it from Mopar-specific vendors. Krylon Dull Aluminum is pretty close, for some parts.

Agreed. .890 would be a big block bar. No big blocks in 64-66. Even a 1968 340-S would be a .870. That said, I put .890s on my 67 273 Commando car. I think going one step up is a no-brainer for any street car — they were all kind of soft from the factory. As noted, many people go much bigger...

This style was used on some 2bbl cars, but I don't have a 2bbl base plate for it. Other 2bbl cars had a snorkel. I used to have one of those, but I'm pretty sure I gave it away.

2bbl? 4bbl? Chrome Commando or plain black? I have an unsilenced black one with CAP, same size and depth as a Commando.

I knew I had this photo somewhere.... bottom item (shiny) is a new sender from Jeg's or Summit (I forget) — exactly the same as the PlumKrazy part above (and much cheaper). Top is the factory A-body sender — completely different.

Huh, I just went to the Plum Krazy site, and the unit they are selling with that part number looks exactly like the one everyone else is selling, with the little short arm and the pivot point halfway down the tube. Image here: The factory A-body unit had the pivot point up near the exit pipe...

Sway bars don't affect the ride unless you hit a pothole with one wheel. In other words, they only come into play when one side is loaded different than the other side — that's how they prevent body roll. But if you, say, hit a full lane speed bump straight on, they have no affect on the spring...

1.08? Definitely won't bottom out, might be a little stiff for cruising... I personally like some suspension compliance — I rely on sway bars to control roll.

For comparison... Barracuda fastback with 273, .890 torsion bars, Bilstein shocks,lowered about 5/8" in front. I sawed 1/4" off the LCA stop. Does not generally hit the bump stops. Freeways here have 5" deep potholes, and I also run some sketchy back roads on occasion.