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I thought you said you had Edelbrock heads? I tried stock non-adjustable on mine too, no go.

Something else I ran into - called B3 or whatever the relocation guy is, and found out you need to do that before you torque the heads down because you have to clearance the pushrod holes. I had already installed mine so I just went with it. He didn't seem put out by it, either from a...

Exactly. Buy them bare and build them to work.

I can guarantee you that you will have to grind on your 273 rockers to get them to work with Edelbrock sized springs. First hand experience here.

It's still ugly but now it's together, z-bar is in, torsion bars are slipped in, engine mounting is all tight. I managed to tear the lip seal on the coupler, I think the cap cut it when it was coming through the firewall.

As far as I know and can tell, it hasn't. But it's been around so who knows. I went back and forth trying to move it away from the steering gear box and kept running into one or the other torsion bar. So, one more big *** dent and I've got steering now. You can't really tell in the photo but...

It's to take the back off a waterproof watch. The backs screw on and off with an o-ring seal. That thing grabs notches in 3 places

Let me know if I can help. My Z-bar is on the workbench right now. I would think you need the angle between the two arms, but am not sure how I could measure it accurately enough to be more than a guess.

Sure they do, and there's a matching taper in the frame rail. That's the story I had heard before too. I had them torqued to 150, no way they were going anywhere they weren't meant to go. Then another reliable source told me there is room for adjustment and I should check that, then I started...

Yes I think I have it. It is moved far to the passenger side with a 3/8" shim on the driver side and I can spin the coupler so long as I take the cover off that. That gets caught at the corners so I will trim off what isn't needed to clear the header. I've got a cover, seal, and wire clamp...

I am counting it as a lesson learned even though I hope I never have to use it again. Before lifting the k-frame to the frame rail, bolt the transmission to the cross member to the body and move it all as far to the rear as the transmission will allow. Then square up the K-frame to the frame...

That is why I just bought the TTI part instead of cutting one apart to rework it. I could see me putting it too close to the edge, or too far away, or clocked wrong. Even the TTI part is very close. I don't think it would take much of an error to start running into things.

That one's about to get his first lesson in getting off on the low side.

From another thread, appropriate

Yes the ruler doesn't lie, but no, I couldn't have measured those diagonals without a frame table. What I did was to get the distance from the front edge of the frame rail to where the K-frame meets the frame rail equal on both sides, and as far back as possible. Then I'm your uncle. I...

Thanks! I have seen this: There you can measure from the front bolt back 44.85 to that measurement point but honestly right now the jackstand might be in the way of that that. I don't have another car around to even check it to see if it's plausible. If I wasn't so beat down old and tired...

I didn't get into measuring the frame, but I noticed that the distance between the front edge of the k-frame and the end of the frame rail is 1/4" less on the passenger side. I have no idea if they should be the same or not though.

My wife noticed the bellhousing to engine parting line doesn't look square to the firewall. It looks like the tailshaft needs to go toward the passenger side. I checked and the trans was already cocked around off center a little in the cross member, tailshaft toward the passenger side. So...

I called before. The guy was nice and tried to help but it ended up I should go ahead and dent them.

If it doesn't I've got a hydraulic press in the corner The good thing about having to beat on headers is that you get to show them exactly what you think of them. It's vey relaxing. Seriously, the trick will be starting the dent in the right place so I can get it done and over with.

If only I would've known. I bought Doug's because of the glowing reviews of how they bolted right up out of the box, but no one expects the Spanish Inquisition. I can't help thinking there's something I'm overlooking, but I kind of ran out of ideas after moving it all the way to the...

I just took everything off that could keep the engine from moving, raised it up, shoved it to the right until the stud bumped on the top of the k-frame slot, then tightened that nut. Then I just sat the whole thing down. Now I've got it all the way to the passenger side - no slot showing. The...

How about when you've done a great job on the paint, and put on one coat too many and ruin it. It's the story of my life

1. The coupler fits on the splines of the steering box, so moving the column itself doesn't seem like it would have any effect. 2. Hadn't considered this 3. Already loose 4. Already loose 5. Already loose 6. If it's this I should just junk the k-frame and start over with a spool mount...

Thanks I had some 16gauge (1/16) that I cut into shims that slip over the stud.

Yeah, a look at the paint on my firewall and the condition of that steering column shows I'm just a hack too. Or in other words, some things just aren't that important to me. :D I need to get this one mobile because I will need to be able to move it out soon when my road runner comes back from...

Yes I did it was off by 1/8" and you can see in photos above that an 1/8" doesn't seem like it would even make a dent (pun intended) in how far it needs to move. It's either the engine brackets, or the k-frame isn't sitting where it should be. I had a friend ask me the distance from the top of...

BOHICA Bend Over Here It Comes Again It's sucking all the joy out of having the car, that's for sure.

I can't tell by eyeballing photos I would have to take them off and have a set to compare on hand. It's so far off it's not even funny. After work, I raised the transmission - that made it worse. Then I took the nut off the driver side biscuit, lifted the engine up and jammed all the shims...

I heard about that.