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Sure! Measure your backspacing. That would be helpful. Thx

Are these what you have??? American Racing VN1055765US: VN105D Series Torq-Thrust D Wheel Size: 15" x 7" [Grey w/Machined Lip] - JEGS

Hey Topless, What are the specs on your Torque Thrusts? Backspacing??? Offset??? I did a lot of research on the web, reading, and measuring yesterday. I sat down and drew several pictures to illustrate what I have and what I want. By my calculations, because of the springs n the inside only...

Nope! The bolt pattern is 5x4.5", front and rear.

Fronts are not much of a problem. The rears are 10 inch wide tires on a 9 inch wheel. Tires are 255/60R15

That's one of my wheel options.

Depends on the car! The torque thrusts look great on your gray. And, they look good on my PT Cruiser. But, I'm gonna tuck the tires back in and go for something more original looking, like Weld Wheels.

You are correct in that they are not measured the same; although related in the sense when attempoting to tuck a wheel inside of the wheel well. Most of the wheel specs that I see on the web mention "Offset"; not Backspacing. Jegs has several good diagrams and charts. How To Measure A Bolt...

Yup! Looks the same. And the previous owner lived not that far from PA. Do the center caps have a logo. On mine, when cleaned up, the inside of the wheel is almost a creamy white. And, it looks like Halibrand is now owned by Holley.

Yes, bad ***! But, fender rub ain't cool.

Most of the historical threads talk about needing positive 4 1/2 inch offset. And, I've seen a few diagrams of it. How To Measure A Bolt Pattern: A Guide To Measuring Wheels | JEGS

Can someone identify my wheels from this picture? No markings. These are currently on my 67 Plymouth Barracuda; but I am unhappy with them. I'm sure the previous owner thought the bigger wheels/tires, and raked stance were "cool". But they present a dislike problem for me. #1 - the offset is...

ANYONE HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH MOPAR PLUS INTERIOR REPLACEMENT PARTS???? I saved a few bucks othet places like Classic Industries by ordering my replacement dash bezel for the 67 Barracuda from MOPAR Plus. But, now, I'm not sure about the quality. Installing the new bezel cause a few scratches...

Finished up today; a;though there are alway other small problem encountered or created by what you just fixed. (Iwill not elaborate on them at this time.) Got the dash all put back together today. For me, the speedo cable was easy to remove with the instrument cluster and bezel just leaning...

Even my "old switch" has that ground spade. I bought a new switch that looks the same, because I didn't feel that the dimming function was working well. But even after a hour of playing with the knob and prong button while watching TV, I never could get the knob in. So just went back to the old...

NO! Even the factory schematic does not show a ground prong on the headlight switch. Since Chrysler stopped putting a wire there, I think they chose to leave it off the schematic. It was a supplemental cluster ground in the earlier models. See the Forum thread link that I posted twice.

Yes, I have the factory Schematic myself, large, in color and laminated! But, it does not show the ground blade on the headlight switch. Does not!

Yup! You are correct! It is the fuse block. I keep thinking in a single dimension when I am looking from above; instead of looking from below to get perspective. From that historical thread that I posted, I'm certain that is was just a hanging loose ground wire for the headlight switch. Thus...

No, I'm pretty sure it was the wire I disconnected from the bottom of the headlight switch. So, someone just used a yellow wire, because that is what color wire they had.

Unfortunately, factory schematic is no help. I even have the colored blown up version.

...only thing that makes the job difficult and a PITA! Having watched a historic thread on FABO, the actual work would be no big deal otherwise. **HOWERVER - ONE LAST CHALLENGE for me is a missing or loose wire to the connector at the bottom of the headlight switch. I know that I removed a...

Thanks 4Speed! But mine looks a shade different. I think that I figured it out by looking at the backside of the cluster itself. There is a ridge to grove orientation at the top of the connector. On my cluster there are 5 pins together at the bottom; 2 at the top clockwise, a space, then one by...

So, I am currently encountering the joys of replacing my instrument cluster bezel in my 67 Plymouth Barracuda. I've been very careful to label everything and followed a "How To" Sticky on the process. But, my middle name is "Murphy", after Murphy's Law. I bought a new Bezel for just under $700...

WOW!!!! I've dodged a small bullet! My cluster already had LEDS installed. The new bulbs that I got are no brighter. So, I am leaving well enough alone. But, when done, I will post pictures of the gague faces.....black before....and white face after. I have already touched up the the hot orange...

Yup! I'm lazy, and not good at deciphering electrical diagrams. *But I am rehabbing the instrument cluster, gauge faces, and lights while I am installing a new Dash Bezel. Below is a picture of the back of my instrument cluster. TO BE SURE LED POLARITY IS CORRECT....WHERE WOULD I CONNECT THE...

I'm GOOD now! Thx all.

Spectre actually has 10 and 11 inches. But otherwise no 13; plenty of 14.

Thanks all! I was actually looking for a red one. But, had to settle for blue. I'll make it work.

DANG!!! I hunted all day yesterday and NEVER came up with a 13 inch! And I also found it just as you posted!!! HUH! Thanks Yah, I figured that "hangover" would eventually vibrate to "opening" at the edge. I even thought about converting the filter base to a 14 inch! Thx again!

...it was slightly wider than the raised edge of the MOPAR Performance filter cover, and would sit up on the upturned edge of the carb filter base! **So, the filter in place is more like 13 inches across/diameter. What's the best solution here to keep my MOPAR Performance cover?? Is there such...