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Yeah, the last one I saw was $850 USD. The Hughes intake with all of the brackets for the fuel rails and adapter to run a stock throttle body is $750 USD new. If I remember correctly, the Hughes is based on an Edlebrock design for carbed applications. My car seems to run great with it, so I...

It was running decent until I got the CEL for it. Now it snaps out of throttle when trying to accelerate and it sounds like it's pinging the valves. I know the MAP is one of the main sensors for calculating fuel load and ignition advance in this system.

Also, I had a CEL for a MAP sensor. Once the new one gets here I'll see how different it runs.

I would like to find an M1 that isn't made of unobtainium. Guys want a fortune for them whenever they come up for sale. I read an intake comparison between a stock kegger, ported kegger, Hughes dual plane, and an M1. The M1 was the highest performer with the best flow numbers. The Hughes was...

Yeah, it's not a radical cam based off the profile and how it runs. It also has a Hughes dual plane intake and long tube headers. I'm sure that combination might more than what OBD I can deal with. I feel like I have the vacuum leaks fixed. The Hughes intake doesn't have a provision for the EGR...

I think that was it.

Maybe we're both imagining it, who knows? I feel like I read about it a couple of years ago on an MS2/3 forum or one the that was Magnum motor specific on Tapatalk. And I'm pretty sure the Magnum forum got shut down because I can't find it. Maybe I'll search the interwebs and my bookmarks for it.

I believe this is the cam: https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-computer-controlled-212-218-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-chrysler-magnum.html It was already in the motor when I got it. I used to have the cam card but I can't find it now. And I agree on watching fuel economy as in indication of a...

Was the truck teal blue? If it's the same one I'm thinking of, I remember reading about on a DIY Autotune/MS2/3 forum. Even if it isn't the same truck, a turbo'ed Magnum Dakota would be pretty rad.

The thought has crossed my mind.

Yeah, it's a completely different car with this motor.

Also, the Mopar TSB 18-16-92 rev a made a difference. It idles smoother and runs better at low RPM. My commute to work is 3.8 miles roundtrip, so I haven't driven it much after "setting" the fuel sync. I'll drive it some more and see how it is. I will say that this motor pulls much better than...

To be honest, I don't know the minimal for an OBD I harness since I had an entire Dakota harness that I put in my car. I would think it would be similar to the OBD II harness like TT5.9mag said, just battery voltage, switched ignition voltage, start signal, and a ground. You can download FSM...

No problem. Some of the other swaps I've read, they just used the engine harness and tied into the start circuit from their original wiring. I could have done that, but I prefer the hard way.

...Cams Xtreme Energy .484 backed to a stock 904 and convertor. I wouldn't think that would be too much cam a stock convertor. Also when I put a timing light on it, the timing fluctuates 5-10* at idle. I thought that was odd. It has a new timing chain and the distributor hold down bolt is tight.

Thank you, rbkt65. I'll check it out and let you know if it works.

Thanks for posting this video. He really explains the process well. Someone posted it in another thread an it's how I set the engine to mechanical zero. Thanks, the harness was time consuming. I worked on it when I had time. It took about two months a few hours at a time. Having good schematics...

I remember hearing about how important it is that the fuel sync is set. I need to get or borrow a scan tool to adjust it.

In another thread about test running the engine here: Attempt at test running a Magnum I was given great advice by knowledgeable guys on this forum. One thing that was recommended was mechanically zero the timing. I went through that procedure and haven't moved the distributor since. I'll put a...

The result of hours of tracing schematics, soldering, and taping: What I'm trying to figure out now is the missing when it's given constant throttle. Any advice would be appreciated.

I like wiring, as long as I have schematics and time. Also have the harness out of the car helps. What was removed from the Dakota's harness. It had power windows and mirrors and I didn't need the extra wires and connectors. The main thing I wanted to accomplish was keeping the interior as...

The engine went in with a fight, mostly because of the long tube headers. I put the carb on it so i could test run it in the Dart and pull it into the garage. The first problem was clearance between the dust shield and the Magnum flex plate. I'm using the Dart's 904 transmission. Before...

I had started a long and all over the place thread that can be found here: Six years should be long enough... There are three different cars involved in this process. The first was a 1970 Dart Swinger that was too rusty to repair, so it became a parts car to a stripped down shell. Some...

Hooked up enough of the harness to make it run. The vacuum leak is from using bolts to plug hoses. Not sure why it's missing when revved.

Not much. I took what I needed and sold the rest.

If anyone is wanting to remove the power steering pump from a Magnum and still use the factory brackets and serpentine belt, it can be done with some research. 90's Dakotas could be ordered without power steering and air conditioning. There is a part number for that belt, but it was discontinued...

Had a few minutes to get a picture of the torsion bar end. Here's what is on it. I also looked up my PST order from April 2020. The are 1.03" bars. I have a hard time believing they measured .110" bigger in diameter than advertised. Maybe they're rated by spring rate equivalent to a 1.03" bar?

I'll have to look. I'll let you know.

Thanks for the information. To be honest, I don't remember what website or company I bought the torsion bars from, and the box wasn't marked. Google shows that PST makes 1.12" bars for A bodies, and that's probably what these are with 0.020" of powder coating. I looked on BAC's site at the RCD...

The car didn't ride too bad on the super stocks. You could tell the spring rate was higher on the rear compared to the stock front torsion bars. I took the first, shortest leaf out of the spring pack before I put the springs on the car. It looks like it sits level, haven't measured the rear ride...