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Well thankfully I was right the flex plate bolts were ALL loose some worse then others. Since I had the starter out I went ahead and tightened down from there after a drop of thread locker. Then marked each bolt with a spot of paint so I can inspect movement later. Started the car and listened...

Flex plate is brand new from Pioneer. I installed when the engine went in but I will check.

Anyone recommend a little threadlocker on the flexplate bolts? I tried to inspect them from the starter hole but it is hard to tell for sure. I am glad to hear others believing what I was thinking. It is hard to tell where the noise is coming from because it is SOO loud. If it is hitting the...

Video First: 20130825_225821.mp4 - YouTube I am not getting much response at slantsix.org so I am hoping someone here may have some suggestions. So what I have so far is a horrendous noise while the engine is idling. If I accelerate past idle the noise goes away. The engine is a fresh rebuild...

I am in Carrollton. Its always good to know someone local. I just had my engine built also. I spiked the punch a bit though lol.

Where in GA are you? I am also in GA.

I got the same valves and springs BUT this is just one part of a MUCH larger project. I have replaced my pistons, camshaft, lifters, lifter rods. I have ported and polished the head. I will not be able to tell you if anyone component made a difference or how much but these valves and springs are...

I personally had a failure in the first year and have seen several posts on here and slantsix.org of people with similar issues. I do not like the pertronix but I have several valid reasons. As stated they will cover it under warranty but you can not walk into any parts store and get it replaced...

Is it the original compressor? The bracket is valuable and very hard to find but I paid for an original compressor and bracket 85 dollars. The guy I bought from did not realize how hard they are to find. The belts and lines usually need to be replaced so not a lot of value in them.

http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.phtml?mktcat=maintenance-article&kw=stop+changing+your+oil&mktid=ob61762858&msite=w

I am shooting for 9.5 to 10:1. I am prepared to have the deck or head lowered and I have spoken to my machine shop. Which is what sparked this question. The need to know what I am looking for so they can shave off what is needed to get there.

I am going to try this here. I am in the machine phase right now. I am having my block cleaned and decked. Same with the head. I have the crank, rods and block being line honed. Cylinders are being honed. Camshaft is being ground to a more aggressive setup with new lifters/push rods...

Well crap. I have the cam out and my initial idea was correct they free float in the block then. I guess a dowel and a hammer will fix my problem.

I am planning on replacing the lifters but keep the cam so could I just knock them out?

This does not seem like it should be hard but I have tried to remove them from the inside of the engine by lifting and I could not remove them. I tried pushing them through unsuccessful also. How are tappets supposed to be removed?

I can not get anything around it. It is set below the level of the high point.

I am going to have to spend the money.

Once I get it out where can I find a replacement?

I can try that. So are you suggesting I should try and bang it on there?

I stripped on of the bolt heads on the rear main seal. Any suggestions on how to remove it? I did remove the other one and it required a lot of force so I am not sure a bolt out will work.

I am sorry I have a Holley 1920.

Not to jump in but I have the same problem. My diaphragm is holding pressure and my spring is springy. So my question is how do you make these adjustments and how do you know when you have adjusted it correctly? Quote: "If diaphragm is good, you will need to make small adjustments to rod...

Thank you again guys.

Should I go ahead and pull the crankshaft and camshaft to be cleaned also? Can they be soaked in mineral spirits?

Okay 2 questions. I am going to go ahead and tear this engine down clean EVERYTHING and replace worn parts. My first question is what is the best thing to use to clean the parts? I was going to use purple power and a wire brush or nylon brush. Second question. Do I use the oil pickup and pan...

Thank you guys. I REALLY appreciate the help. Good information.

73AbodEE Did I miss anything in my steps? One thing I was thinking about if I do not pull the transmission do I need to line anything back up to get the transmission and engine to "talk"?

Okay before anyone says anything I am putting another slant six back in. My question is this something one person can do? How hard is it? I found my slant through Bayer Boys down in Douglasville, GA he charges 500-800 to change the engine. I can not afford that. He also indicated it was harder...

I forgot about the vacuum gauge thank you. ESP47 It is not necessarily a problem but my idle would drop with the ac and headlights on. I know this is caused by the extra draw from the alternator and compressor. My question was whether I should set the idles/fuel air ratio with those draw items...

65LoveAffair I would not think so. The difference from what I understand between a 170 and 225 is the head and the crank rods (attach the pistons to the crankshaft) are slightly longer.