Search results for query: *

I had the same thing happen, only with Sixpack carbs. Poor repackaging and he never insured them. Said that it wasn't his fault.

I bought a cam through Mike at B3 Racing, spec'd by him, Howard's did it. Hyd roller, just trying to remember, I'm not at home, duration is in the 220-230 range, 565 liftish with 1.6 rocker arms, installed at 106 cl, 418 cu in, trick flows, same headers, 2 1/2" exhaust, Sixpack, 4-speed...

Hopefully it won't embarrass you again. I have had a no start twice, embarrassing in front of people. It had something, for me, to do with ign. Something with the coil, ballast and or the chrome module. Ended up being a bad coil. But I think about it every time I have people around...

We can sure get at opposite ends of the spectrum here! I have a Rollmaster timing chain set up on my 418 stroker with that stupid hole in the bolt, drip plate, and slinger, been there for 3 years or so now. Just had the pan and timing cover off for something else and the chain is probably...

Loss of positive power. Battery, alternator, bad connections.

I was going to say, the stamped collar can catch the 5 studs enough to stop it from going in. I have 3 cars with green bearings and did not remove anything from the rear end differential. But you are done, did you regrease your taped bearings?

Depending on the shape or condition of your fasteners, should be pretty straight forward. Will need to check on the condition of your brakes and bleed them at the end. Brake fluid and gear lube .

Broken motor mounts? I don't see any reason for things to change through the rpm range otherwise.

Rollmaster

It doesn't matter, he should go with what they ask for. After break in or driving around for a week end, he should recheck them. Solids should be checked periodically, as should hyd's. It doesn't matter, really, .002 to .005 won't kill anything if it's off, that's why we recheck things. Move on

I set my hydraulic roller as if it were a solid.

Adjust with what the lash is supposed to be. After you break it in, check them again. The lash will open up roughly.005 from cold to hot.

Obviously, what looks good is in the eyes of the beholder. Only one of the above appeals to me, #13, but looks to have the car to back it up. So, you are the beholder, do what you like.

Yes, that would be my guess. The ones that I sold to my friend were floating.

Guess this is the tab.

I'm going to have to look for that tab, don't remember my carb having it. Going out now.

From the picture, looks like mine is the 931. I don't know a lot about the car I bought. The drag link at full right or left hit or touched the back of the pan. I went aftermarket front suspension so it doesn't hit anymore. Probably not helpful, keep looking!

They will work fine. I have had 440 carbs on my engine, tried my stock metering plates, and the Promax, the carb body is fine. Your engine will never know the difference.

They are the same carb except for the numbers and the metering plates. Promax straightens the metering plate issue out, base plate too.

I stand corrected. The orginal that's in a box upstairs has the two blue push buttons still in it. The package tray seems to be captured, it's been in there for years and hasn't gone anywhere, both cars. Thanks for getting me straight!

One, the '72 was probably orginal, think it's in the attic, will look. Switched it out for speakers. The '69, guessing not orginal. The replacements don't have holes for them, they stay in place just fine.

Neither one of my Darts has that fastener for the package trays. Do you even need them? There are no holes in my package trays, except for the speaker slats.

Electro tech in Blaine , Minnesota makes a direct attach 2 speaker bracket and two 2 1/2"" speakers to replace the one speaker. Have them in both of my cars after a their am/fm conversion. It's for balance and fader control in their conversion.

Sometimes, a parts manual is more helpful on where things go.

Yes, no alignment pins on our stuff. Well, the heads do.

BP premium around here is non ethanol.

He could have a stuck bypass also.

Sure.

Hit it with an air gun, or electric impact. Here is a different concern, did you have the balancer on when you tightened the timing cover? The balancer aligns the cover. Though I have used the dampener bolt to install the dampener, you should use a dampener installer.

My '69 Dart with AGM green cap. '72 with a dress up kit on a regular battery, be careful on the battery you buy, overall for looks and where the positive and negative posts are.