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Nice! My first truck at 17 was a 56 big window, I still love em. You need to lower the roofline on the model to match the real thing.

He’s not wrong.

TF. J.Ashley FC. R. Capps PS. E. Enders PSM. G.Herrera Good luck everyone.

Or when you stumble on to a combination that seems to run better than it should for it’s given combo of parts.

“All in” timing is initial plus mechanical with some kind of curve that references RPM. vacuum advance is added on top of all in timing usually for cruise economy and the rate it comes in, as well as when it starts coming in are adjustable.

Those friends don’t make enough power.

I blew 3rd gear out of a world class T5 with a blown (vortec centrifugal) 347 small block ford, I beat that thing like it owed me money and it lasted about two years. I’d guess it made 475lb/ft and the mustang was around 3300lbs. I see no chance of a blown slant hurting a WC t5 if you know how...

I’m very familiar. My reference to smog was because the single hardest pcv system I’ve ever put together was a turbocharged EFI big block Chevy with a mass air meter and a fixed orifice pcv AND it had to pass smog. Trust me if you can make that work you have a good understanding of how to make a...

All of that stuff can work, and lots of guys have put in all kinds of one way check valves and do dabs and gizmos and whiz bangs to make the pcv system function but it’s all unnecessary (especially so for a vehicle that is smog exempt) when simply venting the valve cover to a catch can works...

It’s cool if you disagree but all of my suggestions are based on experience (as I know yours are as well) and I know what’s worked for me. One thing you’re missing is that when the pcv closes under boost you’re still getting blow by passed the rings and now it has nowhere (or very limited area)...

Correct. It will be at atmospheric until you are in boost. Then you’ll have crankcase pressure. The goal is to let the pressure out as easily as possible and catch any oil mist at the same time.

Damn that sucks. Hopefully it’s something easy.

All correct except, I’d ditch the breather in the front and plug it, or run two hoses (front and back of the valve cover) to your catch can. And you’ll have to plug the ports in the manifold youre currently using for pcv.

A large filter.

Those look like 3/8 npt ports and if that’s the case I wouldn’t use that catch can. I’ve made the mistake in the past using venting systems that are too small and you end up chasing your tail. You could try it since it was free but I bet you’ll end up replacing it. My recommendation is to look...

They won’t. Period. Once you have positive manifold pressure, all of those ports are direct paths to the crankcase. Plug them. And throw the pcv in the trash. Vent the valve cover to a catch can with as big of a hose as you can.

See my reply in your other thread.

Not good. Keep boost low and timing conservative, and make sure you have enough octane to not detonate at ALL. The biggest problem is you don’t know what the ring gaps are.

Get rid of the pcv valve. You’re pressurizing the crankcase with it. Cap the hole in the throttle body and vent the valve cover with a catch can with as big of a hose that will fit (-10 minimum).

And Tasca, and Wilkerson, and Chad Green, and……….sorry I’ll stop now.

That’s a lot of good info. What oil pump is on it?

If this was a super stocker, or engine master’s challenge engine, or something where you will be tuning for the last 1-2 hp naturally aspirated I would say it’s worth your time to close them up. But for an average every day street/strip type of engine you'll never see any benefit to it. FYI I...

I don’t disagree with you, yet. I don’t have enough information to make an informed decision. Like which element is being used, what weight oil, bypass spring pressure, etc. But I will say that a typical oil filter will not collapse like that. And that in and of itself IS a problem.

High compression and boost is just fine, I’ve done it and it makes big power. You just have to convince the owner that it won’t run on junk pump gas and it needs a real fuel, like methanol.

I’ll second the Napa premium line. I use them in all of my diesel powered welders, generators, and work trucks as well as my own daily. Currently the one in my truck is from 2015 and still going strong. Although I did just hear that their battery brand has changed. I think to interstate or...

Did you cut the filter open?

It cost you one engine already and could have cost you the rebuild. It’s doesn’t seem like a matter of “if” it will collapse but “when” it will. And that’s been my experience with those canister oil filters on many types of equipment and engines. To answer your question, some have an internal...

Not trying to be an *** but get rid of that junk cartridge type oil filter and housing and put a good traditional oil filter on it.

Your gear doesn’t look nearly as bad as ours did. You caught it pretty early it appears. I’d definitely be cutting the filter open to have a look and that would determine if a bearing check was in order. Maybe run it a short time with a new oil change and compare the oil pressure to what it was new.

Can you post a picture of the bronze gear that’s worn out? We had a bronze gear eat itself during the Baja 1000 in 2017. We replaced with 200 miles left and finished the race. Tearing the engine down post race, there was bronze everywhere and all of the bearings were shot. I’d at least get a...