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Did you cut the filter open?

It cost you one engine already and could have cost you the rebuild. It’s doesn’t seem like a matter of “if” it will collapse but “when” it will. And that’s been my experience with those canister oil filters on many types of equipment and engines. To answer your question, some have an internal...

Not trying to be an *** but get rid of that junk cartridge type oil filter and housing and put a good traditional oil filter on it.

Your gear doesn’t look nearly as bad as ours did. You caught it pretty early it appears. I’d definitely be cutting the filter open to have a look and that would determine if a bearing check was in order. Maybe run it a short time with a new oil change and compare the oil pressure to what it was new.

Can you post a picture of the bronze gear that’s worn out? We had a bronze gear eat itself during the Baja 1000 in 2017. We replaced with 200 miles left and finished the race. Tearing the engine down post race, there was bronze everywhere and all of the bearings were shot. I’d at least get a...

What kind of solid roller cam core is it? Sounds like you had a mismatch of materials or a bushing causing the gear mesh to be AFU.

TF. J. Ashley FC. B. Tasca PS. D. Glenn

Nice work on the driveshaft loop, aluminum is not easy to weld, AND make look good. You did both. Can’t wait to hear how the car runs.

Yup

That will have a direct impact on how it runs.

We were saddened to hear that you stepped away when you did, but understood your rational. Some guys just love to piss in others cheerios and troll around just looking for people to irritate. Glad you’ll be popping in from time to time.

Kind words @JDMopar thank you. The Chevy pedestal mount rockers do work on a magnum with a conversion stud. I believe ARP makes it. I have never done it but lots of people have. That would give the OP the choice of whatever rocker he could dream up as I’m sure there are hundreds of different...

Gotcha. So you were being theoretical. I don’t doubt your carb tuning ability but until you’ve pulled your hair out one by one trying to dial in a blow through carb (turbo or supercharged) you won’t understand why I questioned your statement.

Whoa, didn’t expect that. WELCOME BACK first of all, and please do share.

Are you being theoretical? Or have you actually set up and tuned a blow through supercharged carbureted set up? If so what was it?

Do you have a cam card? Maybe it’s a tight lash solid. Maybe it’s a hydraulic roller cam with solid lifters requiring a tight lash. You have to know what’s in it or what lash should be before knowing if it’s wrong.

You think there’s any less tuning involved with a blow through supercharged carbureted application? There might be less setup, but the amount of work involved is similar.

I should mention since you asked, the self learning capabilities of the sniper are limited to only fuel. The base timing tables that come loaded with the sniper are rather crude and need to be tailored to a specific combination, especially in your case because of positive manifold pressure.

You’re welcome. Glad you’re getting it figured out. Make 100% sure you cleared the locked timing feature in the wizard before doing anything, then watch here.

Not sure exactly but all the specs are listed on wilwoods site including center register diameter. I’ll look.

Wilwood makes a hub for sbp drum spindles that is bbp but it’s made for disk brakes. Not sure if you could make that work.

Don’t worry about changing parts just yet, it’s clear from your video you have a lot of tuning to do. Every time the throttle is whacked the timing goes to zero, then returns to 15. Make sure you cleared the timing lock in the wizard and then you need to get a base tune in the tables.

You didn’t answer the questions in post 17. The videos tell us nothing other than you need tuning. And for testing purposes, adjust the choke so it is off when the engine is cold.

He bought my girl and I a steak in Vegas. He wouldn’t let me pay.

Start over. Pull the distributor, get number 1 to TDC on compression. Then rotate the engine to 15 degrees BTDC on the balancer. Stab the distributor with the rotor pointing to the number 1 terminal on the cap. Then go to 7:50 in this video and follow what they do. The video references a...

I know he’s too nice of guy.

Once the timing is verified and the mechanical timing matches the 15 degrees locked in the sniper, you have to go back in to the wizard and unlock the timing to make all of your ignition tables active. Don’t forget that step.

Get in to the instructions of the sniper and do the timing verification FIRST. This is where you lock the timing in the sniper to an arbitrary number (I think they use 15deg BTDC) and then make the mechanical timing match that number (on the balancer) by rotating the distributor. This HAS to be...