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Welcome. There are lots of g3 hemi swapped Abodies. Have a look around in the “new hemi swap” forum. New Hemi Engine Swaps

You don’t tube the block with a hydraulic roller.

@go-fish this ^^^^ and I’ll add, there may not even be enough material in the small end of the rod to bush (safely) to that pin size.

The dyno sheet shown is labeled for a 331 cu in engine. Is it a true sheet from your 444 cu in engine just mislabeled? How much boost did it take to make 1043hp?

Huh?

No one said “always”. “Likely” was the word used and it was a correct statement.

Well, you’ll need the cam also. But more information from you is needed. Hydraulic or solid?

Make your life simple, get an MSD distributor and plug it right in to the grid. You’ll need to lock out all of the mechanical advance as everything will be controlled by the box via a laptop.

There are way too many possible variables for you to say your distributor is locked and his distributor is locked, therefore they should act the same.

Damn fine question.

If it’s not overpowering the needle and seat it’s fine, as long as you know that fuel pressure has a tuning effect. And if you get everything set up perfectly and then change the pressure, the tune up in the carb will likely have to change.

It’s just words that mean things.

The orange on the plugs is the telltale for mmt. The reason for the change in AFR is because the stoichiometry is different for the different fuels. When the chemical composition changes, so will the stoichiometric ratio for combustion.

It’s very likely caused by the locked distributor. Get it hot and twist 20 degrees out of it then try to start it. Probably will spin nice and easy. You’ll need a curve in the distributor or a start retard to fix it.

A good video with model car demonstrations that makes it easy to see how bar changes work.

In theory yes but in practice, nope. They are un reliable, not well engineered, and not designed to operate with any positive pressure on that side of the valve. I’ve tried. And I always end up getting rid of them. And I’m a pcv valve fan, every NA engine should have one, but I have yet to find...

I use the end of my compression tester. It plugs right in to my air compressor. It won’t give you leak down percentages but you certainly can hear where the air is escaping

You’ve never heard of a leak down test?

I made over 700hp with stock rockers. So that begs the question are aftermarket rockers even necessary? I used Harland sharp 1.6 on a magnum that was for a friend and really liked them but they were non adjustable and pushrod length must be spot on. I used a comp Chevy pedestal mount adjustable...

Nice! My first truck at 17 was a 56 big window, I still love em. You need to lower the roofline on the model to match the real thing.

He’s not wrong.

TF. J.Ashley FC. R. Capps PS. E. Enders PSM. G.Herrera Good luck everyone.

Or when you stumble on to a combination that seems to run better than it should for it’s given combo of parts.

“All in” timing is initial plus mechanical with some kind of curve that references RPM. vacuum advance is added on top of all in timing usually for cruise economy and the rate it comes in, as well as when it starts coming in are adjustable.

Those friends don’t make enough power.

I blew 3rd gear out of a world class T5 with a blown (vortec centrifugal) 347 small block ford, I beat that thing like it owed me money and it lasted about two years. I’d guess it made 475lb/ft and the mustang was around 3300lbs. I see no chance of a blown slant hurting a WC t5 if you know how...

I’m very familiar. My reference to smog was because the single hardest pcv system I’ve ever put together was a turbocharged EFI big block Chevy with a mass air meter and a fixed orifice pcv AND it had to pass smog. Trust me if you can make that work you have a good understanding of how to make a...

All of that stuff can work, and lots of guys have put in all kinds of one way check valves and do dabs and gizmos and whiz bangs to make the pcv system function but it’s all unnecessary (especially so for a vehicle that is smog exempt) when simply venting the valve cover to a catch can works...

It’s cool if you disagree but all of my suggestions are based on experience (as I know yours are as well) and I know what’s worked for me. One thing you’re missing is that when the pcv closes under boost you’re still getting blow by passed the rings and now it has nowhere (or very limited area)...

Correct. It will be at atmospheric until you are in boost. Then you’ll have crankcase pressure. The goal is to let the pressure out as easily as possible and catch any oil mist at the same time.