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The joining of blue and brown mentioned earlier in this thread to create 12v switched power, that joint, is going to be the feed for a relay that sends power to this aux fuse block. But the more I think about it, I guess that relay is not a replacement for a fusible link or fuse. Also, im the...

Yes, not sure what year, they went from being 1 manual to separate for chassis and electrical. I have a 1977 chassis manual, and a 1976 electrical. Being my car is a 77, I really thought there wouldn't be much difference in the electrical components throughout the years of the same vehicles...

The fuse block is currently going to run the Mallory CD ignition, an Autometer tachometer, and a basic CD deck....at some point later down the road, it may get an electric fuel pump, which is something that may be added to this fuse block, so setting up the wiring now for future growth makes the...

All I know is that the car was running with the wiring this way. I only took out the harness to go through it, and figure out finding switched 12v power. Those tests I could definitely run once I get the harness and battery back in the car, as well as the engine/trans (hopefully this weekend)...

Im trying to locate a proper wiring diagram for the ignition switch for 1977 as I only have one for 1976, and I know the ignition switch and starter relay changed in 1977. The reason it may SEEM I am overcomplicating this is because IGN1 (the blue wire) is ran just as mentioned here, and also as...

Ok so I think I have this figured out. First pic shows the only wire that comes to the starter relay from inside ignition switch which is the yellow going to "I" for ignition on the relay Next is the brown wire that goesto the "bal" terminal on the relay, that when traced to the ballast...

Thanks for your reply. I agree that this is not an A-body, and I know things are different, but the input is what I was after. In terms of a trigger, I need a trigger for the auxiliary fuse block I installed, not just the CD ignition system. I am aware that the heavy red and black are what...

Funny you mention that, because before I posted this thread I was doing some digging and it seems to not be recommended to use the starter relay in this way. I mean, if it could be used, that would be awesome and simplifies things, but if not, then where could I pull 12v ignition power from?

Okay, going to try and get this figured out in the garage tonight. I can't remember if I kept the old wires that I removed. Here I was removing wires thinking they would be useless, even for this use scenario...oh boy lol

As in a jumper from one terminal on the starter relay, to the other? So the wire that fed the ballast, which would be going to "BAL" on my starter relay would be switched 12v power...But I need hot in both run and start since the ignition box needs power in start to fire the car.

Not sure I fully understand....the blue wire that went to the ballast has what function?

Hot in run and start. Yes, still using factory ignition switch, there are no toggles for anything. The only wires I removed ran from starter relay to either ballast resistor, EGR recirculator, or the factory electronic ignition box, nothing to the actual bulkhead connector was removed removed...

So not technically an a-body, but I am hoping to get some assistance here since the concept is similar... I have been going through the harness on my 1977 Aspen wagon, removing parts of it that I don't need, and ensuring that all the wires and connections are good and clean as this is going to...

I know it is, but man is it ever beat to death at this point lol

Who cares what hood is on it when it was faster then most peoples current junk in here over 10 years ago? BADASS Ride, one of my favourite Barracudas

THIS! I find it incredibly hypocritical how many people will say they are for free market capitalism, yet this kind of stuff bugs them. IF its an EXACT copy, and its patented, then yes, sue the hell out of them, its a damn ripoff! But we know that literally none of these Chinese copies are...

Just to update this thread, I ordered a basic Dampener from Summit crossing my fingers it would be a press fit and not a bad crank. Didn't have time for a full install, but yesterday went out to the garage quickly and tried to slide it on the crank snout- it slides on by hand the first bit, but...

Hi Ron, Yes it is a residential address. What info from you do I need to start a money order? Never done one before. I will let you know shortly if usps or ups...im pretty sure upse charges crazy brokerage and duty, even if its a used item, but I will double check. Thanks Matthew

Deal, pm'ing you now

Okay great, please let me know

Yes, but I'm building a Mopar as we know, and its different lol...but will be interesting to see, as the whole build was pretty no expense spared.

My Dad and Brother built a pretty stout 488" stroker Pontiac for my brothers 71 Lemans a few years back, going to see if they remember what the balancer was like going off and the new one going on just for curiosity sake.

This is the thing- nothing I can find says that it NEEDS to be a press fit as a requirement...Not saying that it isn't, but I can't seem to find any proof other then what we all generally would believe as a requirement. Even in the factory service manual, I can't find anything that would say...

Man im out of it today...for a 727. Title and post edited for accuracy.

I believe it is. A part number on it would help to confirm

Looking for a B&M weighted flexplate for a 727. The type used for a 360 (external balance) and a neutral balance converter.

What exactly are you saying? Maybe I am misunderstanding, but I am also getting some numbers from elsewhere and I just want to find a decent range that hopefully lands me in the middle. I am also going to measure the inside of the balancer.

Thank you! Going to measure tonight, really hoping mine is in spec and its just a balancer replacement that's needed.

Would anybody happen to know the factory spec for the snout diameter on a cast 360 crank? That might be easier then trying to wait on finding a used balancer to check, since I can get the balancer off after work tonight to measure mine

Sorry, I need to edit my post... It was turned 10/10 by whoever was in it last, BEFORE me