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I suspect you would have blue smoke from the exhaust if excessive oil was getting into the combustion chamber.

Hysteric, Post #66....comes from NGK. You obviously know little about spark generation. Production cars used carbon string high tension leads, often with a resistance as high as 30,000 ohms. Then they had the series resistance of the rotor tip gap ANNNNNNNNNNNNNNND the series...

Finally, Hysteric, you did something right...... lean mixtures need more timing, which is why when cam overlap increases, the mixture is diluted [ leaned out ] at lower rpms by exh dilution...& requires more timing. Many years ago, Champion had a spark plug series called the U series that had a...

Here is the plug wire test. #6 was a non-res plug, specified by the wire manufacturer

Here is what NGK really said about resistor plugs......

Hysteric, Are you really that ignorant? Engines using a distributor have a rotor that has an air gap that the spark has to jump before it gets to the spark plugs. That air gap has a resistance in the millions of ohms, several orders of magnitude greater than a 5k resistor inside the plug. In...

I have used contact cement [ glue ] many times. I must have been lucky.....

RRR, I will tell you why you do IDLE TIMING first..... You bolt on your carb, factory 12* of initial timing. You find the mixture screws are not adjusting the mixture; you are able to screw them all the way in...& engine still runs. You remove the carb & find too much transfer slot is exposed...

On resistor spark plugs. Circle Track tested about 10-12 heli-wound plug wires that had different ohms per foot. The test was to see if resistance affected the hp. There was a small HP difference between the best & the worst, & the winner did NOT have the lowest resistance. That is likely due to...

Turk, Should have added. The links I quoted above with happy endings were from a variety of people.

...dark night.... My GTO & hundreds of thousands of other Pontiacs idled on the showroom floor with a tiny 197/212 @ 050 cam....& 10.7:1 CR....with 26*. The car makers need to be conservative because they do not know the end use of the car. The Edel tuning manual states to use plenty of init...

Use contact cement

The transfer slot. It is mentioned on p.2 of the Edel carb book.

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What follows is just a FEW examples that got it right....

A few people are saying fix the carb first. They are 100% wrong. Timing at idle [ & more if IT BIS needed ] IS NOT A BANDAID. What it shows is that folks do not understand what is going on in the cylinders...at idle!!! At idle, the air entering the engine is throttled [ almost closed t/blades...

There will always be newcomers to this hobby that are not familiar with particular words/terms & are wanting to learn....

OP, The Isky E-4 cam only part # is 390144. That comes from an Iskt Catalog [ remember them.....]. Do NOT buy new lifters unless you want to risk lobe/lifter failure. Instead, have your factory lifters re-faced.

...known only to Chrys, they did not use man vac adv [ MVA ], instead used the useless PVA. GM used MVA. My 1966 showroom stock Pontiac idled @ 26*: 6* init + 20* MVA; with a very mild cam & 10.75:1. [ Chevs used about 24* ] With more cam & lower CR, vac is reduced & even more timing is needed...

You can set your idle rpm as low as you like, as long as these conditions are met: - if auto trans, engine doesn't stall or become 'edgy' when put into gear - doesn't stall when braking. Obviously keeping idle rpm as low as practicable saves fuel & saves wear/tear going into gear on auto trans car.

All carbs have some shaft play.....for safety so that the throttles do not bind in the open position. It would be odd that the sec shaft is worn more than the pri because obviously the primaries get more use...

^^^^^Had this on new Harland Sharp rockers. Too brittle. These companies probably buy the fasteners from a common supplier.

...adjust the carb last. This is how you do it. Disconnect & plug the VA. Engine idling, in gear if auto, starting with the dist giving about 10-12* at idle. Turn the dist slowly to advance timing until you have the highest idle speed. Now check the timing. My guess is it will be in the 20-35*...

Since you want to keep the original engine, but would like 25-30 hp more, I would do this: - have your factory lifters refaced - engine should have a sol lifter cam if original. Going too big on the cam can easily turn a small engine like a 273 into a dog. I would use the Isky E-4 sol lifter...

Factory 273 AFBs will likely be hard to find, might need rebuilding. That is why I suggested the Edel 500 AFB, it is the right size for a stock 273.