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As I posted days ago, as in the steelies, the Rallye 14" and 15" centers are the same diameter. find you some beat up 14" Rallyes and cut the centers out, send them to a wheel place and get whatever size and offset you want.

I think the only thing that had 3/8 were the Hemi cars and the 6 Pak cars. My 69 Coronet R/T 440 has 5/16 with a 1/4 return line. And to think GM had 3/8, even the 6 cylinder cars-the few that I've looked at.

I have a nice old CH440, A dual plane 4500 base Edelbrock.

I vote fix your factory air inside and update under the hood if need be. I have a surviver 67 Dart 270, 273 with factory air, all original air running R12. It will freeze your *** out. I've had passengers ask me to turn the AC down. And yes-you can still find R12, just look a little bit...

Looks more like Joe's diaper.

Not supposed to be a dumbass and swallow any, that's something Gomer Pyle would have done. :rofl:No-we've all done it I'm sure. Drink or eat whatever will calm the taste down.

I've acquired quite a few older application books for a lot of stuff. I have a big EIS catalog, so I was able to find the 76 A body calipers on Ebay. These are new EIS made in USA calipers. A lot of those items are still available if you have a brand and part number. It's nice to buy stuff...

I forgot about that. i just remember some of Dad's cars had them, but he always used good Diesel oil, he was a farmer.

I'd run a draft tube if the engine was setup for it.:rofl:

There is special PCV hose. Fuel line hose breaks down from the oil, gets real soft.

To those that don't know-the 76 A body caliper used little larger pistons than the 73-75 A body. I think they were the same as the F and later M body calipers. Probably doesn't really matter but probably does?:lol:

Maybe someone sent him some hi octane coffee.

I've been using the Hayden 2747 clutch on my 71 Polara for 15 years. It's the HD one. Makes alot of fan noise at low rpm, but does what I need it to. I already have another one ready to go as a replacment or on a new project. I would recommend it if you have AC.

There is a predrilled hole up under the package shelf. Watch your you pull its and salvage yards for later A bodies. I've gotten several from later Valiants and such It's an extra wiring harness that plugs in between the harness that goes back to the taillights. Then you have the on-off plunger...

AMK has the correct u bolts in 2 different lengths. Most of the Mopars that I ever worked on had the flattened gripper u bolts. Hell, I have a couple 38 Plymouths and they used that flat u bolts way back in 1938-earlier even I think. I've seen the housing tubes pinched by round u bolts.

Don't you have some 14 inch steel wheels that could donate the centers? Cut them out as neatly as you can and send them to a wheel place and order what you need. The 14" and 15" centers are the same diameter, at least a lot of them are.

That Vannith TQ guide that used to be over on Moparchat gave detailed instructions how to drill your baseplate out and add the vacuum nipple. I did a 9077 years ago, worked good. I got to the point years ago when I was buying TQ's, that I wouldn't buy one unless it had the vacuum nipple. There...

You always need to look at the acc. pump bore. Many times they are scored or corroded. Leather might be more forgiving. If your TQ looks like the ones that UTG has gotten off the Titanic and says they are all junk, you might need another top.

PM sent. Get ahold of me.

I have a friend that bought one of these setups a few years back. He had nothing but problems with that POS. They finally admitted that they source some of their stuff from China. He sent it back. He went back to a single disc and everything was ok.

Take a picture of the whole back of the flywheel. These holes in this picture are not the cast crank 340 balance holes. There should be 3 drilled circles on the middle ring on this back. I guess is this whole assembly got balanced together, it should be OK.

Sorry I missed the part about a 4 speed.

Show us pictures of the throttle bracket and kickdown linkage once you have them installed. You should have the nice Thermoquad throttle bracket-it should work on your existing carb and intake. Make sure you have the Edelbrock Chrysler throttle adapter-part number 1481. Please don't cut your...

I vote, keep what you have. Along with a functioning choke, hopefully correct throttle and kickdown linkage. Provisions for AC compressor brackets-the way Ma Mopar planned it. Who cares about weight on a street cruiser.

318-2bbl. A few places sell the 340 bracket without the pivot pin. You'll have to fabricate the rest. It's not hard if you have some more linkages to cut up and use for parts.

I visited a friend the other day. He owns a body-restoration shop, mainly Mopars. He has started doing Hellcat swaps and says Griffin is the only radiator that he will use. He says-you get what you pay for.

One Raybestos mc36426 on Ebay, auction number 303114332927 for 99.95 and free shipping.

Power brakes and AC? Cam accordingly.

The Raybestos no that you should have is MC36426. It is shown for the 70-72 disc brake A Body. It is listed in the older Raybestos application list. I don't know if there is any difference. I believe there is one on Ebay right now.

I would say that your MC is a replacement. It would have a 7 digit casting number instead of what you have if it was Chrysler MC.