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Yep. Me too. But I like all sbm!

I honestly don't know a lot about the car yet, I've had it awhile but I really haven't investigated it too much. It's been pretty stripped down, is caged and back halved with pretty monsterous back tires. It has a ladder bar setup and a braced housing Ferd 9" rear. Appears to have aftermarket...

Well, laid down a couple coats of the summit battle ship gray single stage. I have to say I'm pretty pleased with the outcome. Flattened out pretty good once it was wet. Glossier than I expected (not a bad thing though) This ought to look pretty cool when it's done.

Y'all might notice the weird water pump. I pressed out the impeller and welded up the end of a water pump. This is so I can adapt an electric water pump.

Well got the key parts primed up today. Using summit brand epoxy primer and catalyst, 1:1 ratio. Seemed to lay down pretty good considering I'm absolutely not an auto paint professional. I'm gonna be using the battleship gray for finishing, so it'll actually look similar to how it does now...

For an ootb set of heads the trick flows are gonna be tough to beat. Or go with a set of SM or Eddie's and have them worked.

Careful, thems fightin words round these parts

I'm gonna try to get the block and some other parts painted today. This is the cam I'm planning on running (I already have a matched set of cam/lifters/springs). I figure it's enough cam to pretty much max out the ootb Edelbrock heads. And also enough to take advantage of ported heads in...

Maybe a victim of using water instead of antifreeze, in Canada?

(Within realistic stroke and bore and rpm combinations) Rpm capabilities aren't directly driven by bore and stroke. This is an old myth that's been dispelled.

Not a big update but it's a step I always dread. General cleanup and prep for painting the block. Historically I have pressure washed and scrubbed with soapy water, but this time I did things a bit different. I got a bunch of brake cleaner to get things initially cleaned up, then used a solvent...

Hey guys. So what are you recommending in general for basic oil system prep? I'm not really interested in major mods unless it's really warranted. I've seen the oiling mods thread and a lot of that seems to go pretty far. What would you guys say are the key things to address on an engine that...

ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS double check all critical clearances. Machining is definitely expensive. This block required quite a bit of rework on this last go around. Between decks requiring correction, the correction on the bores, and the rebalancing required on the reciprocating assembly, I was north...

So my next order of business is to prep the block for assembly. My current plan is this: 1. I need to get out the dial bore gauges and double check piston bore clearances. Same for mains. 2. I'll debur and smooth the oil drain backs. 3. I'll test install the cam just to make sure it spins...

Yes you're exactly right!

I just worry about messing things up. Honestly ootb the bowls looked well blended. I don't want to play with material removal as it's just not a science I'm familiar with. And I know for sure it's something I could easily make less power from.

Yeah I know. It's basically... do I want to have another 100 HP or a couple grand less in the bank account. Right now the money is needed so the hundo will have to wait.

Would be ideal if it can drive. That's my goal right now :rofl: With the heads being the basically stock I'm definitely airflow limited. But that plus spray should still be plenty fast.

Should be a fun deal. If I can just get it finished :rolleyes: It's going to go in this beat up old drag car:

Don't expect to learn much from me :lol:

Yeah I have been keeping up. I figured as much. Maybe you getting rested up will coincide with my budget opening up.

I really need to get this put together. The finished block has been sitting under my workbench for.... probably a year and a half now. Anyway, finally getting some time to work on it. It's a 340 block, 0.40 over. So that makes for a pretty big bore size of 4.080. This was originally planned as...

Ring gap, conservative timing, plenty of fuel. E85 and you can bump it up.

That cam is small for a blown 408. With the nice heads it's probably 475 naturally aspirated. Approx power level: Boosted HP = NA HP x (boost pressure + atmospheric pressure)/atmospheric pressure. 475 x (10+14.7)/14.7 = 790 HP. This is idealized so you have to factor in things like...

Ok being a rear sump pan that makes more sense. Still looks lower than it probably is probably a camera angle thing. Nothing but accolades on your build though. I hope that between kids and my business I can get more time to work on cars one day.

Ok. Seems like with it being near the bottom of the pan it would push oil up directly into the can if pressurized. Maybe I'm seeing the pan connection wrong.

What does the catch can do to reduce crankcase pressure, or is that just a better way to evacuate the ventilation from the valve covers?

Very interesting. Thank you for doing some experimenting and publishing results. What's the difference between this and installing a larger valve and offsetting the location by (half) the increase in diameter?

@subcom great post. As always your content is great. Thanks for this. Real information vs. pure speculation.

I bet a hemi short block with forged pistons and aftermarket rods would hold up just fine for a long time with the right tune at 1500 hp