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^^^^^These. My friend got from Summit & it was quite cheap. I think the centri design is based on Mallory, but not 100% sure.

This engine is non-std & has a non-factory carb & headers, both visible in the pic. Does it have other mods? So factory settings can only be useful as a guide once engines are modified. Even absolutely stock engines can benefit from 'tweaking'. That is because the car maker, not knowing the end...

Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see where it was pinging. 57* at cruise is NOT excessive. At cruise, the engine is under the least amount of load. Some of the 57* is coming from the VA, & some/all of that amount reduces as you load the engine & vacuum drops.

I have used a tach buffer cct that I got from Peter Serio, a fellow in the US that repairs car instruments & gauges & knows his electronics. I have used it with HEI dists that are used with cars that originally had points. It is a bit more than a resistor....but easy to consruct for a few bucks...

Not sure about the 'logic' that the sec coil res is 10,800 ohms. The tach connects to the primary of the coil which is 0.7 ohms.

Had exact same problem with a Pert module. Died suddenly....but started after engine cooled down. Owner no longer trusted the Pert & switched to HEI. Going well now, well over 10 yrs.

I would be looking at the coil, points & cond, or ECU if elec ign.

If the body of the alt was not earthed, then there would no current flow through the alt & therefore no heat generated. I cannot see how the alt can be mounted [ with bracket etc to the engine ] without being earthed.....

Maybe tight bearings?

There was a guy on forums by the name of Dave Ray. Haven't heard from him for a while. [ Which is good because a lot of what he posted was BS ] Claims he worked on the development of GMs HEI. He also claimed he had 50 gal drums [ plural ] full of dead Pert modules....

I learned my Optima 'lesson' a few years ago. New Optima red, about 18m old. Going down a hill, engine died, no warning. Pulled over, batt was down to about 7v. This was NOT a charging problem. After sitting for a few hrs, bat voltage came back up to 12v. Bat was under warranty, but Optima would...

If the electrical system is stock, the total draw is probably a few amps [ single figures ] less than the alt rating.

Those modules are pretty cheap. I would replace it. Use heat transfer paste between it & the mounting. NOT dielectric grease!

Giving an engine 32* at idle is NOT a band aid if that is what the engine wants for best idle & vacuum. A band aid would be giving it less than optimum timing at idle...

Yes, this ^^^^^^^^^^^^

You have a high rpm intake & wondering where the low end went? Use an RPM intake. 9.5 CR is not helping either. You need a HEAP more initial timing, 30* plus.

As I said.....keep the p/up wires separate from the coil neg wire & HT leads. If you look at the MSD 6 box [ & others ], the p/up wires exit the box on their own...& at the other end of the box from where the coil wires exit. They did that for a reason..... Similarly, on modules such as HEI &...

George gets it....

Using a coil with high pri resistance results in less spark energy, all else being equal. If the module will work with a coil that has 0.6 ohm pri resistance, I would find an E core that has ~0.6 ohm pri. They are more efficient than canister coils. There is a reason GM was able to run 0.080"...

It is a good idea to twist the p/up wires, but not mandatory. Check for p/up air gap, should be 0.008". Make sure there is an air gap for each reluctor tip. Contact between p/up & rel tip results in no spark on that cyl. Keep the p/up wires away from: coil - wire, tach wire, high tension leads...

This could be many things, but I think more likely electrical [ ign ]. If points ign, check gap. Check dist cap & rotor for cracks, arcing. If elec ign, check p/up air gap. No gap or too big a gap can cause backfires. If the vac adv is used, after high mileage the p/up wires break from constant...

First, You must test the coil resistance with a DVM the ign off [ no power to the coil ]. If it reads open cct under this condition, then the coil is bad. Touch the meter leads together to make sure the meter goes to zero or close to zero [ meter is working ]. Secondly, you will not get an...

If it 'fired up' after squirting starter fluid into the carb bores, I would looking at carb or fuel pump.....

Turk, After reading your post #68, I have to admit I got it wrong in post #67. You are not just dumb, you are really dumb... Not only dumb, but cannot read either....... Not that it is any of your business, but I am on more Chrys forums than GM forums. Might be hard for you to...

Yes, master. Your bullshit has been noted. If I posted my results, you would claim they are unsubstantiated...& where is the proof. So I post results from respected people, known to thousands..... Where is YOUR proof that HEI is not better than a Chrys ECU??????????????? You are just so...

Some want to tell that switching to a Platinum or specialty plug......or increasing the plug gap is worth nothing... Ding Dong...

With a magnetic trigger, the spark retards at higher rpms due to distortion of the flux wave created by the trigger.

Phil Jacobs, founder of Jacobs ign systems, wrote a very good book called Performance Ign Systems. I have not used his systems, but those that have generally have positive comments such as better mileage & power. The Chrys ign system did not fare well in his ign comparison, especially compared...

Rymor, Take no notice of Newbomb Turk & his superb ignorance. If he actually knew anything about ign, he would know that HEI is an improvement. Look at FACTS. [1] Over the decades, spark plug gaps have increased. Why? Because the greater exposure of the mixture to the bigger spark is more...

The HEI upgrade is a very good upgrade for a number of reasons. You should use an E core coil [ such as MSD #8207 or similar ] to get the best out of it, as they produce more spark energy. - HEI has variable dwell, Chrys ECU doesn't. Important for high-er rpm operation - variable dwell keeps...