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Well AJ I pulled the carb and the transfer slot was a perfect square so no adjustment was needed. I set the idle screws to the highest rpm and it was at 650 in drive. They were screwed out 1 3/4 turns same as before. I backed off the timing a bit to get the 750 in park number and connected to...

Your fine. No worries here. The Edelbrock rods will be here tomorrow and I can get a better read on a hotter plug.

Right. I have the rods for the carb coming that will lean it out. Just waiting for the mail. It'll lean out 8% at cruise and power. I just picked up one step hotter spark plug to try. When the rods get here I'll take it on the expressway and get a clean shutoff and cut that plug apart...

When the engine was built the math did work out to a touch over 9:9 to 1. Like I said before that Don spun the distributer and set all the advance and vac can for me. I filled out a very long spec sheet that he sent me and he came up with the curve. And if you look at some of the first...

When I set the idle mixture screws I turned them all the way in until it stumbled then turned out 1/4 turn. That seemed to help more than using a vacuum gauge. Cut another plug open today and it's a little bit rich. If you look down the threaded shell you can see it's black all the way down.

I put a timing light on it yesterday and at idle the engine is really happy at 35 degrees advanced and it has 20 inches of vacuum. I tried to check the advance at idle with the 16 initial and connected to manifold vacuum but the bulb burned out on my timing light. I was told by FBO when...

Thanks all for the coaching. I had my distributer spun by Don at FBO and I just dug up the build sheet on it. It says initial is at 16 degrees. Vacuum timing can is 14 degrees at 14 inches of vacuum. 18 degrees at 3400. I set the timing at 34 degrees at 3400 rpm with the vac advance...

I am having a carbon problem on my intake and exhaust valves that I cleaned up last winter. It was quite thick on the intake and the exhaust indicating it was running very rich for years. It's all back together now and I'm trying to get it to burn cleaner. It's a 9.9:1 340 with magnum...

I have thought about that too. I just wanted to get it running and driving for this summer because I have had a hell of a hard time getting the top of the engine back together after I disassembled last fall. It would be something I would do in the future for sure.

I used both. Plates against the head and the gasket between the manifold and the plates. Haven't driven it yet but plan to today, when the fog clears, to the gas station.

The gaskets worked so far! I have to do the right side now because it's ticking too.

Your Air Gap will not allow you to close the hood. I have the same setup as you and I have an Edelbrock carb with a 5/16" gasket and I had to use a drop base air cleaner and remove the insulation from under the hood. Mancini Racing fixed me up on the drop base and chrome top.

The manifold is warped .008 on the center two ports. I'm gonna try the Remflex gaskets and not have the manifold cut.

Here are some crude plates I cut 20 years ago. I used .063 mild steel

Did you use them on a stock magnum head? Maybe this is the answer.

Yes, that's the problem at the bottom of the port with stock replacement magnum heads. The 340 manifolds are a large LA port and the magnums are a small port head. I made some 16 gauge block off plates like Dion R made and they leak slightly around both sides of the plate. it's not much...

I thought about having them brazed but didn't want to molest my 340 manifolds. I can't believe I'm the only person that has run into this.

Thanks I did catch the interference between the head and manifold and ground down the head. Using a flange was something I thought about too. A magnum flange with extra meat around it to catch the LA manifold but I wouldn't want it to be very thick. Maybe 3/16" would be about right...

I rebuilt my 68 340 block in the early 2000s and used magnum heads on it. After having one set with cracks I just bought new bare castings. Back then all the Mopar magazines said that the 340 hipo exhaust manifolds bolt right on and they were right except you eight huge exhaust leaks. I...

I was surprised that the air cleaner didn't make much of a difference in the power rating.

I guess I was just wondering if the SD5H14 was big enough to cool my car. It's listed as being used in compact cars.

Hey everyone. I bought HemiDenny's very cool low mount AC brackets for a small block and I'm just now getting around to install it. My question is what size compressor should I get that will fit in the brackets and cools the down the car quickly. Trying to decide on the Sanden H14...

If you have the stock style Magnum heads and 340/360 headers there's a port mismatch and you will have a huge exhaust leak. Can't say that's true for all headers but best to measure first.

I have the 340 exhaust manifolds on my car with the Accurate Exhaust head pipes. I have that same oil filter plate without the 90 degree adapter and I have to use a really short oil filter to clear. And I have to unbolt the head pipe to change filters. The filter is a Wix/Napa 1335.

My pedal went to the floor when I drove for the first time this year on Tuesday. But if I pump it five five times then I had some braking. I could feel the drop down like when you have a blown out brake line, but there were no leaks on the ground when I pulled over and looked.

Got to text him today and he said that he didn't know of any pressure seals that fit. Maybe try to find some that fit a Dakota but he said it might just be better to buy a new one. So I ordered one today and I hope I get it quick.

Found my paper work and I bought it in June of 2014 and it has around 4500 miles on it. I guess its just a wear item you throw away and replace.

I took it apart and the seals look ok as far as there were no tears or cracks. But of course the outside edge of the seal is gonna have wear. I looked down the bore and I couldn't tell if there were anodized or not.

I haven't called him yet. I can try tomorrow.

I bought a Doctor Diff aluminum master cylinder some time ago and now it's getting wore out and was wondering if anyone knows of a place I could buy some new pressure seals? I emailed Doctor Diff but got no reply and tried to start a conversion with him on here but his box is full. Or...