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You could split the difference and run a solid flat tapper cam. More likely to work with the springs on your heads than a hydraulic lifter. Edit: actually just looked up your heads. Seems you have 240lb seat pressure and a 500lb/in spring rate. That will kill any flat tappet cam/lifter.

Seems drilling and tapping two holes in that bushing would be easy. Then just use a puller. Great idea.

Is that basically a 360-4bbl cam? I have a new Lunati voodoo in that grind but its .455 lift. Was going to use it in a 318 in a power wagon but will probably rebuild a 360 i have so might go a step larger on the cam.

if the cylinder only had 15psi compression the. One of the valves is likely bent a bit. What size cam is in the motor?

Was the pump on an assembled motor, so no telling what it actually looked like new out of the box?

Got this cam a few years ago and ended up regrinding the cam I pulled from the motor. New in box, no lifters, I bought it as cam only. This is Harolds version of the mopar 528 cam. Ultradyne NF62 lobes on 110 lsa. Lunati had this on their website as their “factory perfomance” grind. $275 plus...

Did you pull the distributor out at all?

Do you have a build thread or dyno thread here?!

This makes sense given the -8 written on the end of the cam.

I would believe that could be the comp magnum 270 if it sounds like that at 900 rpm.

If you think it was reground then you def have to put it a block and measure or take (or send it) it somewhere to measure it.

Ahh need to get to cleaning and assembling now..need to decide if im gonna bother to weld baffles and maybe a scraper in the pan first … This cam ended up being almost the same as a solid i decided not to use haha. Wanted a step or two smaller. An ultradyne grind as thats what they could turn...

Pretty sure this lobe 5222 is his cam currently. Don’t think it would be my first choice lugging at 1500rpm in a 318 and looking for fuel efficiency.

Yeah i saw that. And it says it’s in stock which might be a big deciding factor.

That grind is the same as a comp 268-xe I would try something a step or two smaller and on a 112 lsa

Sounds like a stock converter. It’s nice for cruising, efficiency and mileage. If you can deal with something feeling a little mushier so you can get into the power band sooner then consider a looser converter.

Didn’t measure bore taper, don’t have the tools. I did check gap on the new rings. Checked a cylinder by measuring ring gap in 4 spots all the way down the bore. So it goes from up top a loose and smooth .020” gap and tightens up mid bore. Can still get a .020” feeler gauge through but it’s...

Thanks! Found a similar build as mine from an old article. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-0003-360-engine-build-top-end-part-4/ Cc’d heads and i got 66cc chambers. Ill have 10.2 cr, almost exact same cam (just a little faster ramps and .3335 lobe lift and 111 lsa, prob install at...

Next question. Do the look like factory main bolts? Just thinking about torque specs for assembly…

Yeah, if you want to use the rockets you have then this is the best option.

Basically gonna do this. See Yetis post that quotes “tuner” where it mentions the sandpaper and glaze breaker. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/will-it-seal-and-not-burn-oil.2562101/?post_id=70342491&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-70342491

The prw arms work. Brian can probably sell you a set.

Think i’m gonna try to polish up these bores a bit with some wet/dry sandpaper on a three prong hone and a little water. Forget where i saw that but seems worth a shot. Rings seated just from degreeing the cam supposedly.

The bad bore isn’t perfect, what will this be? 5% less pressure? I think this cylinder pumped 180psi on a compression test. The others 185-190. A little pitting. And the worst, circled in green some more pitting from a weeping gasket. You can. Feel it with a fingertip but whatever. Should...

Here is what the bores looked like after sitting in the garage a few years with heads off. The surface rust from sitting cleaned up from the rings just rotating trying to figure out timing events. And 30 mins with a flex hone and some atf mixed with mineral spirits.

^ oh that photo sucks (on my phone). Can’t see ****. Bearings seem ok. Probably just got dirty.

Oh that wasn’t too bad. Std bearings on both mains and rods, i can get some king stdx to add .001 clearance. Will just use some plastigauge to get a rough idea where its at to make sure that’s a good move.

Sheeeyit. Heard from bullet. Cam is 215.5 at .050 .303 lobe lift. Went to emails from wayyyy back with previous owner. Summit 454 lift cam. Its the summit 1789. So its a 272 cam…if i grind it to a 280 ultradyne lobe. Seat duration is about the same but duration at .050 is 230 instead of...

Those EQ heads aren’t the same castings as the old ones.

Haha. There are ten to fifteen different roller cams with .640 lift. Just sent an old comp cam to bullet to regrind. The Ultradyne lobes can be ground pretty quick. All the others are cnc and much longer wait.