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I have the same idea myself in building a stock stroke (400) but same principle, just make something radical that isn't the norm nowadays with all the kits available

Sounds good buddy,I'm in Washington state, my hemi cars currently on ebay!

Well that's up to you, if you want to trust those rods, arp will be your best option for bolts. Have to be mindful of torque specs though as more torque on the bolts will require a little resizing the rod. If you were to change to main studs you would need the block line honed also. Since it's...

yeah that's probably not happening then IMO

A custom light weight piston for a 383 will set you back 1500 bucks

I getcha. I already have a blown RB based 452 in my pro street car that makes roughly 900hp. Trying something different. The basis of this build really is the rotating assembly and the block.

This is better then Days of our Life

He can kick it up to 431 with quality parts and keep it close to his original goal of using a standard 383.

Think I can get away with just a set of ARP rod bolts? Don't really want to change the main bolts as the bottom end is already assembled unless it is absolutely necessary.

I run Molnar in my engine, it's quality stuff. I imagine the trw pistons weigh quite a bit more than a cast piston. Just saying this jokingly but nobody can see a stroker crank inside your 383 block lol, things get a lot easier with more cubes

Because she's my wife... but keep speculating.

Yes, it’s an awesome site. We’re glad you’re still here. Kim

Make sure you run really good bolts then.

I have a GV in my 72 duster. There was not cutting of the tunnel, there was one spot that was clearanced slightly. I don’t have the controller, and it survived a small oh **** going into reverse once. As for the snubber, if it’s the square tube one, you can cut it down on both sides to shorten...

And I just don't know if it's even worth the money dropping $800 on good Molnar rods at a stock stroke in the first place

Yeah, I would believe it. 100%

Jim Laroy tested and found valve interference at .800 lift on 4.280 bore

I'd almost agree, but I honestly trust the good quality steel 50 year old forged rods more than new chinesium junk h beams..

Greetings from Honolulu, Hawaii! Looking forward to participating on the boards. Also looking nationwide for a stock H-code '71-'72 Duster - my wife's itching to drive one just as much as I am! We started dating as seniors in HS and at that time I was driving an Ivy Green '70 Duster 340...

The mid to late 80's Diplomats-15X6 or 15X7. Usually the same year Chrysler Fifth Avenues had the 15X7. They used the full fake wire wheel covers that had very aggressive mounting teeth on the back. Usually the wheels are scarred up pretty good. watch your U Pull Its, have a small tape measure...

I would not trust 50+ year old rods to hold up to that rpm. Never, if it breaks it costs you nearly the entire engine

It could have easily been used for other things.

Awesome thread, I'll be following along. I'm about to do the install on my 4 speed 69 Swinger. Keep up the great work!

I have trick flows on a 470 tunnel ram engine It will pull up to 7k, but I make peak power at 58-5900 rpm and have a solid flat tappet so really there's no need to run it up that high. Sometimes the bore is a little smaller on 383s for trickflows. I have a 4.375 bore and had to notch the top of...

I'm getting back on here for the first time in eight years and might hit you up on some things. Had some major life changing events that stalled me out on completing an A-body Hemi swap Resto-mod project for many years. About to post a link to a starting issue video I'm uploading to YouTube.

Ahh! Thanks makes sense. Strange the picture in the OP is a 1979 intake. The second one is a late 80's or early 90's intake. Was there an option for an electric fan in 79? Maybe for an A/C evap fan in 79? I briefly read somewhere as I was nodding off last night about an air temp sensor. But...

That's a fan switch.

Of course! They went into a lifter box aligned in the order that came out of the engine!

Here's a picture of a block with some sort of sensor in it. There are definitely two sensors?

I would be fine with 6500-7k but I m going off of what I was told by cam companies. I don't really know cam voodoo all that well